By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Jaaks, the Kyle Bay restaurant that first made a name for itself with high-end Greek cuisine, has reopened following a thoughtful renovation, reimagining itself as a relaxed Greek mezedopolio bar.
The transformation, led by Executive Chef Arman Uz (ex Efendy Group), brings a playful approach to Mediterranean flavours, where small plates and mini souvlakia meet the sparkling waters of the Georges River.
Today, the white tablecloths and formal furnishings are gone, replaced with light timber, neutral fabrics and linen sails suspended from the ceiling. The effect is casual yet elegant, capturing the ease of a Summer evening on the Greek islands without leaving Sydney.
The 40-seat dining room is complemented by a lounge area for walk-ins, encouraging spontaneous gatherings over an Ouzotini or a glass of tsipouro. Owners George Christodoulou and Diana Valsamis say the venue now invites guests to return often, whether for a midweek meal or a leisurely weekend lunch.
"This is as close as you can get to the Greek islands, without travelling for 24 hours,” George says.
At the heart of Jaaks’ new incarnation is Arman, whose return to the venue is steeped in personal history. "Returning to Jaaks feels like coming home - but with a new perspective, stronger vision and a more profound respect for what this place represents,” he says.
His journey has moved from fine dining toward something more relaxed and playful, with a focus on sharing. "The menu now is about small plates, mezedes, mini souvlakia, rotating selections of seafood, offal and vegetables - all with seasonal and regional roots. I’ve grown more confident in what I want to express: heritage, flavour and approachability.”
The menu is generous in its offerings. About 20 mezedes and mini souvlakia rotate regularly, from lakerda with green tomato and papara to sheftalies, a Cypriot sausage dish reimagined with salmon belly.
Mini souvlakia are served in individual portions, Japanese-style, with cuts ranging from Wagyu rump and pork belly to rarer finds like ox tongue, kingfish collar and swordfish belly. Vegetarian options such as halloumi and cabbage ensure there’s something for every diner.
"Anything that can be skewered will be considered for inclusion on the menu, including offal and vegetarian options like halloumi and cabbage, all of which are prepared over charcoal on a hibachi grill,” Arman explains.
"This is how our families cooked during our childhood. They couldn’t afford expensive cuts so they had to make do with what they had, by utilising every last part of an animal or vegetable. It doesn’t always have to be Wagyu or lobster to be high-quality, good food. We want to show that there are plenty of options available that can be celebrated and enjoyed.”
Arman’s upbringing in Turkey heavily informs his approach to flavour and ingredient use. "My upbringing taught me that flavour lies in the details: how herbs, citrus, smoke and even ‘lesser’ cuts or humble vegetables are treated. Family cooking meant using everything - offal, bones and every seasonal vegetable - through grilling, slow-cooking and preserving.
"That same philosophy influences my approach at Jaaks. We use housemade pickles, charred cabbage, wild greens and halloumi - dishes that may seem simple, but carry depth. Texture, balance, umami, acidity - these layers are what make a dish honest and vibrant.”
For diners unaccustomed to offal or unconventional cuts, Arman hopes the experience is one of curiosity and delight:
"We hope people are excited to try things that aren’t as commonplace here as dishes you’d usually see at an Australian-Greek restaurant. When someone tries something new - like ox tongue or kingfish collar - and says, ‘I didn’t expect to love that,’ that’s everything. I want guests to feel like they’ve discovered something, that we’ve earned their trust through how we treat the ingredient.”
Developing a new dish at Jaaks is a careful balance of tradition and innovation. Arman explains: "First, I ask: what gives this dish its soul? Is it herbs, acidity, fat, texture? Once I understand that, I look at what a local or seasonal twist can add to something new.
"Using salmon belly in the sheftalies rather than pork isn’t a gimmick - it’s an intentional way to bring richness and delicacy while staying true to the spirit of skewered, spiced, grilled food. I keep the soul intact: skewered meat or fish, kissed by fire, meant to be shared.”
Jaaks is open Thursday to Saturday from 6 pm and for lunch Friday to Sunday. With its waterfront views, casual yet refined setting and a menu designed for sharing, it invites diners to experience Greek flavours in a new light, where every skewer tells a story and every meze encourages connection.
