By Leigh O’Connor.
If Christmas had a secret side door into Sydney, it might look a lot like Nel Restaurant - all twinkling anticipation, cheeky surprises and the kind of warmth that starts at the table and ends somewhere in your childhood.
This festive month, acclaimed Chef Nelly Robinson and his team are back with a bang (and a sleigh bell or two), inviting diners to unwrap the season bite by bite through the return of The Story of Christmas: a dazzling 12-course degustation that’s equal parts nostalgia, theatre and pure edible joy.
Think of it as Christmas dinner reimagined by someone who’s travelled the world, raided the pantry of memory and decided rules are made to be deliciously broken.
Each course arrives not just as a plate, but as a little tale - reworked classics, forgotten traditions and global festive flavours stitched together with Australian Summer swagger. It’s the kind of menu that makes you lean in, curious, because every bite has a wink behind it.
Take Summer Pine, for instance. It sounds like a postcard from a hot December and it eats like one too: a savoury sorbet of pineapple, green chilli and coriander, wrapped in a dolmades leaf. Cool, bright, a little spicy - it lands on the palate like walking from the sun into shade, a reminder that Christmas down here comes with bare feet and late light.
Then there’s the Noel Terrine, French-inspired and gloriously rich, a layered duck terrine with foie gras, truffled chicken mousse and blueberry jelly. It’s festive decadence dialled right up, the sort of indulgence that feels like permission. One forkful and you can almost hear the crackle of wrapping paper and the murmur of a kitchen full of secrets.
Nel is never content to just serve dessert - it performs it - the Cherry & Custard Tart arrives like the grand finale in a sweet little snow globe. A Christmas-spiced custard sits snug in delicate pastry, crowned with juicy cherries soaked in warming mulled syrup. Then, at the table, a flurry of icing sugar ‘snow’ drifts down and suddenly everyone’s smiling like they’ve just spotted the first fairy lights of the year. It’s playful, devilishly indulgent and precisely the kind of moment you want to linger over.
What makes The Story of Christmas special isn’t only the technique (though, trust, it’s there) - it’s the feeling. The menu dances from Europe’s ancient customs to the bright, sun-kissed tastes of an Australian Summer and somehow makes them feel like they’ve always belonged together. It’s a celebration of spirit and heritage, yes, but also whimsy, delight and that slightly mischievous holiday energy we all secretly crave.
"This menu is about nostalgia, tradition, and fun,” says Chef Nelly. "We’re drawing inspiration from history, from childhood memories and from cultures across the globe - all with our own cheeky Nel twist.
"We’re inclusive too – for the naughty and nice!” That line alone tells you what you’re in for: a festive feast that doesn’t take itself too seriously, but takes your joy very seriously indeed.
Seasonal, sustainable ingredients lead the way, with Australian native produce proudly championed throughout. In proper festive spirit, Nelly’s raided the cellar to pull out some absolute cracker wine offerings. The 12-course degustation is $195 per person, with an optional wine journey for $165 per person, or a $95 non-alcoholic pairing for those going booze-free but not fun-free.
The festive runs through to Tuesday, December 23, with Nel also opening on Monday, December 21 for dinner, plus lunch on selected Fridays and Saturdays in December. In other words: the countdown is on and the sleigh is already at the curb.
So, if you’re looking for a Christmas experience that feels like a storybook you can taste - where every course is a chapter and every table is a front-row seat - Nel is ready to make your festive season sparkle.
Bring your appetite. Bring your nostalgia and maybe bring someone who still gets excited by snow, even if it’s made of icing sugar.
