History: The son of Polish immigrants, Richard credits his love of food to his parents Jan and Ted. “Even though there was not a lot of money around we still ate well. We always had simple, fresh food – the ingredients were bought on the day they were cooked. Mealtime was important, and there was always a nice bottle of wine on the table and no TV!"
Richard began his culinary career at a little French restaurant called Froggy’s in Parramatta where he worked with Anthony Mussara. It was before the end of the “long lunch” and he recalls his customers included people like advertising supremo John Singleton and a who’s who of well known business identities of the time.
Eventually, Richard looked to further his skills and travelled to Canada. For 5 years Richard was the Chef at the famous Dalvay By the Sea onPrince Edward Island (renowned for being the setting of the Anne of Green Gables movies). "The docks were two minutes away and we had access to all the most wonderful seafood,” says Richard. “We also had great local produce from the farmers, the soil was so rich. They grew great traditional vegetables and we introduced them to some newer varieties such as lamb’s tongue and mizuna lettuce and baby vegetables. It was a wonderful experience.
"We were getting clientele from Boston, New York and Maine who had heard about the food scene on PEI. To be a part of that was so exciting and that’s what it’s like here in the Highlands. We grow all our own vegetables and herbs and use local produce and wines.”
To broaden his knowledge, Richard took on a different role as Product Development Manager for a chain of restaurants known as The Cactus Club – a role he describes as "an amazing learning curve. These venues were doing 400 – 500 people a day. It taught me a lot about costs, systems, and the development of a brand."
Back home in Australia, Richard opened Eschalot in 2003. "We moved to Berrima in 2006 and have found ‘home’ in this venue," he says.
Richard is thoroughly enjoying being back in the kitchen, where he cooks what he calls “Modern European cuisine”. “It’s all about creating the Highlands experience – people come for lunch or dinner in a building built in the 1850s, have a wander through our gardens, look for somewhere to stay and maybe visit a winery or two…”
Q & A with Richard Kemp
Have you always wanted to be a Chef? Yes!
How would you define your style? In terms of food, modern European.
As far as Eschalot goes, we’ve never tried to be a city restaurant in the country. We try to give an authentic Southern Highlands experience: local produce, local staff who are here because they love it and are well educated about food and wine, without the attitude. Relaxed professional service and trying to encompass the Southern Highlands is what we’re about.
What is your feature flavour these days? Everything is cyclical; as soon as the season changes we move on to something else. Right now it’s cold so we’re doing lots of slow braises and red wines in front of the fireplace, that sort of thing.
Obsessive compulsive about? Keeping things simple and fresh – letting the ingredients speak for themselves.
Your greatest culinary inspirations/influences: People that have changed or had an impact on the way I look at food, people like Neil Perry, Peter and Greg Doyle. The first time I ate at Tetsuya’s, that changed my perspective. Also Anthony Mussara; his approach is a bit more simple and pure. Having spent 10 years in Canada there were a few guys there who inspired me as well. As Chefs we take snippets from different people, from different dining experiences, and I still get that buzz when I go to restaurants.
What do you love about this business? (Laughs) Working my a*** off and getting no money! No, seriously – it’s a love/hate relationship. I enjoy the flexibility. I love that, like music, you can stir people’s emotions and see instant reactions; you can make someone’s night a memorable experience. It’s that emotional attachment to customers.
Can you give an example? When I first qualified as a Chef at Dalvay By the Sea on east coast of Canada, a couple from New York were visiting for their honeymoon and I cooked them an eight course tasting menu. She started crying; he described it as the best honeymoon they could have had. For a 22, 23-year old at the time, it was very powerful.
Also people coming out of hospital after battling cancer for three to four months, they’re blown away by what they’ve had at the restaurant. It’s an emotional connection you can’t put a price on.
An ingredient you can’t live without? Very good olive oil. When you cook simply it imparts so much flavour. That with a bit of fresh crusty bread, cracked pepper, shaved parmesan cheese – it’s the business.
Most ‘eyebrow raising’ menu item? I don’t really have one; if it was that ‘out there’ it wouldn’t be on the menu. I don’t try to be that guy who tries to wow people with how clever I am. I’d rather just have beautiful fresh ingredients rather than things no one understands!
Signature dish: In the eight years that Eschalot’s been around we’ve had a few dishes that have come and gone, and people have requested for them to come back. I’d have to say our most popular dish is the Thirlmere duck – a confit leg with breast roasted medium rare, served with a combination of different garnishes that change seasonally. I can’t take it off the menu because I think there would be rebellion and we’re here for the people!