AUSTRALIAN GOOD FOOD GUIDE - Home of the Chef Hat Awards
Jacopo Degli Esposti
Born:
Venice, Italy.
History:
My journey began during a Summer job in a kitchen in Venice at age 16. I knew instantly that this was my world, but I also felt a powerful drive to aim to reach a much higher level.
After my studies in Venice, I moved to Australia at 19, using it as a base for travels through Japan and India that expanded my culinary horizons. The pandemic led me back to Europe and to a life-changing period in Paris, training at the one-Michelin-starred Joël Robuchon’s Étoile and the two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Guy Savoy.
These esteemed kitchens instilled in me a deep respect for French technique and discipline. After a stint reopening a Robuchon restaurant in the Caribbean, I returned to Melbourne, where I am now Executive Chef at La Madonna and Bistrot Bisou. My cooking today is the culmination of this journey: my Italian heritage, classic French training and a passion for Australian produce.
Have you always wanted to be a Chef?
While it wasn't a childhood dream, my path was set from my first kitchen job. It was less a conscious decision and more a calling, followed by an all-consuming ambition.
How would you define your style?
My style is defined by a French phrase my role model Joël Robuchon told me: "La cuisine simple, c'est ce qu'il y a de plus compliqué”, which means simple cooking often yields the most magical results. In terms of cultural influence, my dishes are Italian at heart, but always executed with French precision.
What is your feature flavour these days?
I am currently focused on creating a complete journey of flavour within a single bite. A perfect example is our La Bordelaise en Ravioli, featuring embedded bone marrow and tarragon. The dish is specifically designed to be eaten in one mouthful to allow the diner to experience a wave of flavour, richness, classic sauce and fresh anise, all at once.
What are you obsessive-compulsive about?
Cleanliness and order. For me, maintaining a pristine space translates directly to the quality and clarity of the food on the plate.
Your greatest culinary influence:
My greatest culinary influence is, without a doubt, Joël Robuchon. He taught me both technique and philosophy. His idea that three perfect ingredients are more powerful than 10 mediocre ones is a principle that guides me every day.
What do you love about this business?
The intensity. There is no better feeling than the high I get after a long service, knowing that every dish that left the pass was perfect. It’s the ultimate reward in my pursuit of excellence.
An ingredient you can’t live without?
Butter and bones. I consider them the essential foundations of flavour: butter as the soul of French cooking and bones as the base of every great sauce and jus.
Your most ‘eyebrow-raising’ menu item?
I enjoy spotlighting ingredients that diners may not be familiar with. While tongue can initially raise eyebrows, it’s becoming more popular and our Tongue Assoluto with Mayura Station Wagyu and Spring asparagus is definitely delighting our guests.
Similarly, Guinea Fowl isn't well-known in Australia, but diners are loving our version: a free-range stuffed breast with bone marrow duxelles, a crispy thigh and an asparagus velouté.
Signature dish:
I consider my signature dish to be the Spaghetti au Caviar. It embodies my entire philosophy by using simple ingredients to create something memorable, bringing together spaghetti, Anna Dutch Baeri caviar, lemon and butter. It’s a dish that perfectly melds my Italian heritage with French technique.
What can diners expect when they eat at your restaurant?
Diners at my restaurant can expect a casual fine dining experience. You will receive food with the technique, quality and precision of a top-tier kitchen, but it is served in a modern, relaxed atmosphere, with restaurant staff who are incredibly knowledgeable and hospitable.
What is your go-to meal at home when you don’t feel like cooking?
My go-to meal at home is a 250 g grass-fed Scotch fillet. After a long week of creating complex dishes, I crave simplicity.
Tell us something no one knows about you?
A little-known fact about me is the whirlwind journey I took to get my Australian visa. I once flew from Paris to Sydney for just five days, then flew straight back and was working in the kitchen in Paris the very next day. I was incredibly determined!
La Madonna Restaurant & Bar
La Madonna Restaurant & Bar, nestled within Melbourne’s bustling Little Collins Street, is a sophisticated haven where contemporary flair meets old-world charm. The space is richly layered with dark timbers, plush seating and warm, ambient lighting, creating an atmosphere that feels both opulent and intimate. Drawing inspiration from Melbourne’s cultural vibrancy, La Madonna balances refined elegance with a sense of unpretentious comfort, making it a destination for memorable evenings. Pair a cocktail with starters like scallops with artichoke purée, emulsified fumet de poisson and parsley pangrattato; before twirling your fork around spaghetti with Bolognese-style lamb. Perhaps guinea fowl entices, served with bone marrow duxelles, Brussels sprouts velouté and guinea fowl jus.
