AUSTRALIAN GOOD FOOD GUIDE - Home of the Chef Hat Awards
Leonardo Militao
Born:
Sao Paulo, Brazil.
History:
I come from a family of great cooks - none of them professional, but food has always been in our blood. It took me some time to realise I wanted to pursue this passion as a career, but once I did, I dedicated myself fully to the craft.
I spent more than a decade in Sydney, working in some of the city’s top fine-dining restaurants alongside hatted and Michelin-trained Chefs. Those experiences gave me the foundations of discipline, creativity and leadership.
I was part of the opening team at Crown Sydney in Barangaroo, one of the country’s most ambitious hospitality projects, but the highlight of my time there was leading Kingsleys to international recognition, earning the title of 31st Best Steak Restaurant in the World in 2023, as well as 2nd Best in Australia.
As a Brazilian, cooking over fire has always been part of my life and I’ve been fortunate to transform that passion into a culinary specialty.
Two years ago, I moved to Queensland in search of new challenges and a brighter lifestyle. Since then, I’ve been Executive Chef at Etsu Izakaya, a prestigious one-hat institution and one of the Gold Coast’s most acclaimed restaurants. I was also very fortunate to be invited as a finalist in the 2024 and also 2025 Chef of the Year Queensland competition - a truly great event to be part of.
Have you always wanted to be a Chef?
No, I didn’t always know I wanted to be a Chef. I actually graduated in Business Administration back home and spent four years working in the financial market. While it was a valuable experience, I quickly realised that sitting in front of a computer from 9 to 5 wasn’t the life I wanted.
How would you define your style?
I’d define my style as ingredient-driven, innovative and fun, while always staying grounded in classic cooking techniques. I believe the best dishes start with the freshest produce and a respect for tradition, but I enjoy adding creativity and energy to make them memorable. A big part of my style also comes from my passion for cooking over fire - whether it’s wood, charcoal, or open flame, it brings a depth of flavour and character that I love working with.
What is your feature flavour these days?
Lately, my feature flavour has been all about showcasing freshness with a balance of boldness - I’ve been working a lot with raw seafood, bright citrus and fire-driven smoky elements. I love combining clean, vibrant flavours with the depth and character that comes from cooking over wood or charcoal.
Obsessive-compulsive about?
I’m obsessive about not taking shortcuts in the kitchen. I believe recipes and procedures exist for a reason and I can’t stand when they aren’t followed properly. Consistency is everything. I’m also very detail-focused when it comes to organisation - especially in the cool room.
Your greatest culinary influence:
My biggest culinary influence has always been my family, who first inspired my love for food and hospitality. Along the way, I’ve had the privilege of working with many incredible Chefs, each leaving their mark on my cooking and leadership style. Travel has also played a huge role - experiencing different cultures, flavours and techniques around the world.
What do you love about this business?
What I love most about this business is creating experiences that make people happy. For me, dining out has always been about more than just food - it’s about connection, quality time and memories. Being able to bring that joy to others is what drives me every day.
An ingredient you can’t live without?
Hard to say only one, but lately I would say soy sauce.
Most ‘eyebrow-raising’ menu item?
A5 Wagyu striploin steak, imported from Japan. Cooked over charcoal, served rare on a small grill with smoked lemon myrtle.
Signature dish:
Our Hokkaido scallop on crispy rice.
What can diners expect when they eat at your restaurant and what makes the experience special?
Diners at our restaurant can expect a vibrant, energetic atmosphere that feels like stepping into a hidden izakaya in Tokyo. With no sign on the door, there’s a sense of mystery and discovery from the moment you arrive. The menu blends innovation with tradition - you’ll find all the classics you love, but also dishes you wouldn’t expect to see in a typical Japanese restaurant. It’s a dining experience that’s fun, surprising and memorable, combining authentic izakaya spirit with a creative twist.
What is your go-to meal at home when you don’t feel like cooking?
Sourdough bread and a good cheese.
Tell us something no one knows about you?
I don’t like salmon. I’ve tried it every way possible, but it’s just not for me - which isn’t exactly the easiest confession when you’re running a Japanese restaurant!
Where do you see yourself in 5 years’ time?
I see myself running multiple venues and introducing fresh concepts and styles that continue to elevate the Gold Coast dining scene - and hopefully expanding even beyond. My goal is to create restaurants that not only showcase innovation and quality but also help position Queensland as a true food destination.
Etsu Izakaya
Open the barn door at Etsu Izakaya on Gold Coast Highway in Mermaid Beach to discover a magical mystery tour of Japanese share-plate dining. Moody surrounds of neon signage, walls plastered with photographs and a long, low-lit dining space make this izakaya-style restaurant an ideal place for a romantic encounter, or chilling out with friends for after-work drinks. The menu embraces all aspects of Japanese fare from sushi and sashimi to tempura, salads and teriyaki; think yakitori skewers like pork belly with ginger glaze, Nashi pear chutney and chilli, or Wagyu kushiyaki, black garlic, aged tare and chives. Salivate over robata grilled Moreton Bay bug, kombu butter, yuzu koshu and sancho pepper, or beef tenderloin, greens and sancho pepper; finish with a dessert of matcha crème brûlée.
