By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
To realise the value of one year, ask a student who failed a grade.
To realise the value of one month, ask a mother who has given birth to a premature baby.
To realise the value of one minute, ask a person who just missed a train.
To realise the value of one second, ask the person who won a silver medal at the Olympics.
Time is truly a curious thing…often slipping by silently unnoticed - yet, ceaselessly shaping every season of our lives.
At North Sydney’s newly opened fine-dining restaurant Toki Bistro & Bar - which fittingly means ‘time’ in Japanese - each tasty bite serves as a ticking hand, inviting diners to mark memories lived and those yet to be made, with a curated, eight-course feast told through the language of flavour, fusion and finesse.
From the moment you enter Toki’s moody Paris-meets-Tokyo interiors - all deep mahogany floors, black marble tables, vintage red velvet seating and warm lighting from overhead glass chandeliers - time seems to stand still. You’re invited to mirror this pause, to linger and let the pace of the outside world fall away.
Leading the kitchen is Head Chef Jay Choy, whose global pedigree includes Michelin-starred kitchens in the US and the French-Korean fine dining establishment Sous Marin in Seoul, as well as a nomination in San Pellegrino’s Top 10 Young Chefs Awards.
His culinary philosophy at Toki blends the elegance of classical French technique with the boldness of Asian flavours and the freshness of Australian ingredients.
It is an approach that results in a menu that melds both nostalgia and nourishment. It is one best enjoyed through the eight-course Four-Chapter Tasting Menu ($170 pp) - served in one of three elegant private dining rooms, accessible via a discreet elevator on Miller Street and seating 8, 10 and 15 guests.
Chapter One is a tribute to beginnings. Sydney rock oysters arrive dressed in citrus shiso mignonette, each slurp a briny burst of innocence. Bluefin tuna, nestled in a crisp shell of sweet potato, delivers a textural contrast that captures the freshness of childhood discovery.
In Chapter Two, just like life, things get more complex. The amaebi tart with citrus cream and a sharp yuzu tamarind dressing mirrors the tang and tension of growing up. Another standout here is the chicken liver and unagi - a surprisingly rich, smoky dish that hints at hardship but rewards resilience.
Chapter Three marks maturity. It’s here that Toki flexes its technical, time-tuned prowess with dishes including an impeccably tender eye fillet, served atop a velvety parsnip purée, slicked with glossy beef jus.
Finally, Chapter Four’s dessert invites reflection with a strawberry sabayon crowned with cardamom foam, followed by a petit four that is as delicate as it is decadent. It’s a quiet, nostalgic close to a beautifully orchestrated meal.
If you’re not up for the full eight-course experience, Toki’s 60-seat public dining room offers an a la carte menu that’s no less poetic. The marron Udon, with its buttery strands bathed in lobster bisque and beurre blanc, is a dish that feels ahead of its time. The bone marrow custard, luxuriously topped with bacon jam, uni and ikura and served on a crumpet, is the kind of creation that stops the clock and lingers long after the last bite.
For something hearty yet refined, the spatchcock with miso stew, corn and a cheeky crunch of fried chicken is a clever riff on soul food, Asian-style, delivering a meal for the ages…
For those seeking to elevate the experience further, luxe additions are available. The housemade rice blini with caviar and creme fraiche may be fleeting, but it is unforgettable.
The tomahawk steak, carved tableside, acts as an interval to an evening of food theatre. The crispy duck - first served glazed with lavender honey and then reimagined as a sausage with shiitake jam - delivers the type of indulgence that marks a moment worth committing to memory and cements Toki’s commitment to creativity and no-waste ethics.
Drinks at Toki are also given equal esteem for those keen to explore the emotional pull of a good glass - with the bistro’s wine list featuring a curated selection of bottles from Paris to Tokyo to the Hunter Valley and complimentary tastings available courtesy of the in-house Sommelier.
A rarity in many modern restaurants, dining at Toki isn’t rushed. It’s revered and, the team truly takes pride in perfecting a menu that magically marks the passage of the past to the present on your plate.
