By Joseph Steele.
French cuisine: often mythologised, rarely misunderstood and always better when eaten in great company. During French Week – that sacred time when we pretend our morning espresso is somehow more existential – we turn our attention not to the haute-couture of haute-cuisine, but rather the quiet powerhouses of French snacking.
The kind of snacks that don’t scream sophistication but rather murmur it seductively while whisking you away to the sun-dappled bistro in the 6th arrondissement.
These aren’t your overworked croque monsieurs or flamboyant escargots. Non, mesdames et messieurs. These are the secret weapons of the French snacking arsenal, favoured by the well-shod of the Parisian elite right through to the rustic provinces. Understated, unpretentious but undeniably tres chic.
Here’s how to craft the perfect French bite - three often-overlooked delicacies paired with just the right splash of vin to transport you – if only mentally – to the heart of France.
Sardines on Toast (avec beurre & sal de mer)
Le Minimalisme Délicieux
At first glance, it sounds like something your uncle would eat while standing over the sink, or it may conjure up thoughts of more austere times. However, in the hands of the French this snack becomes pure poetry. Starting with a thick slice or crusty pain de Campagne, toasted just enough for crunch, not to crumble. Slather it with an indecent amount of beurre demi-sel (a salty French butter so creamy it should come with a warning label) then layer on glistening fillets of sardines.
The secret is in the sardine selection. Ideally, you want the ones packed in olive oil and the kind of tin that you’ll want to put on display. Finish with a pinch of fleur de sel and whisper of lemon et voila! If you're after a bit more zest, wafer-thin slices of radish truly elevate this humble bite.
Drink pairing: a crisp glass of Muscadet or Picpoul de Pinet, both refreshingly briny and designed to tango with the sea.
Pistou-Slicked Crudités with Baguette Soldiers
The French Riviera’s Answer to Antipasti
Pistou is pesto’s effortlessly elegant cousin who holidays in Nice and refuses to own a blender. The Provençal classic is a hand-poured blend of basil, garlic, olive oil and sometimes cheese. Traditionally stirred into soup, but savvy snackers know it’s a divine dip. Pair it with skinny batons of raw carrot, radish, green beans plus some torn-up baguette to mop up what remains. The series of bite, dip, sip and repeat is a ritualistic experience. Yes, the crunch of a radish dipped in pistou is an aphrodisiac. Science be damned.
Drink pairing: A chilled Provençal rosé. Something pale, dry and preferably consumed while passionately discussing where to Summer.
Jambon-beurre Reimagined (hold the fuss, keep the attitude)
Paris in a sandwich
Let’s not pretend that the jambon-beurre is ‘underrated’, it’s practically a national treasure. Here we’re talking about the real thing. No lettuce. No aioli. No artisanal truffle mayo. Just perfect ingredients doing perfect things.
Opt for a fresh baguette, still warm if you’re lucky, slice it lengthwise and spread with a generous (read: obscene) amount of salted butter. Then, a few paper-thin slices of jambon de Paris, delicately folded. Tender, flavourful and delicately delicious, this ham makes all other hams look, quite frankly, brutish. For an elegant twist, a smattering of cornichon mustard adds just the right acidic snap. Serve it in halves, wrapped in wax paper and eat it standing up like a proper Parisian. Bonus points for exuding vague disapproval at everything around you. Trust me, it’s en vogue.
Drink pairing: A glass of Champagne Brut, because nothing elevates ham and butter like a bit of fizz.
The Final Bite
French snacking shines in its simplicity. It isn’t overly complex and focuses on balance. Salty with creamy, crunchy with slick, rustic with refinement. These bites command attention with all the hubris of France, a nonchalant shrug and a flick of a linen napkin.
Sidestep the obvious and embrace the elegance of simplicity. In the land of liberté, égalité and gastronomie, even a bit of sardine on toast can feel like a culinary revolution.
Bon appétit and don't forget the wine.
Always the wine.
