By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Sean Connolly is a creative force in the culinary world, with the Yorkshire-born Chef’s career spanning more than 40 years and continents. A businessman, ‘affable geezer’ and lover of rock n roll, art and fashion, Sean has built a culinary empire across Australia and New Zealand.
From Esther at QT Hotel in Auckland to Pavilion Bar & Kitchens in Queenstown and Steak & Co by Sean Connolly at West HQ, Sydney, his venues are united by a philosophy that prizes tradition over trend, provenance and simplicity.
Yet for all his cool-guy cred, Sean’s approach to hospitality is also deeply personal - rooted in nostalgia and inspired by the sweet memories of his Grandmother Esther, after whom his flagship restaurant is named.
"She was a huge inspiration - great storyteller, wonderful sense of humour and a loud laugh that filled a room. On top of that, she was one of the greatest cooks I’ve ever known. I learnt a lot from her about hosting and welcoming people into a space and I took a lot of inspiration from her when we designed Esther. We wanted people to feel like they were sitting in a friend’s kitchen.”
With Esther sitting at its epicentre, it’s evident that Auckland’s food scene has been a particularly vibrant playground for Sean, a city with passionate suppliers and eager diners ready for bold yet approachable flavours.
"I love making dishes that evoke a memory or transport you back to a special time and place. Food and travel are so closely interlinked for me personally, so I love the feeling of being whisked off to the Mediterranean with a single bite.
"I felt there was a space in the Auckland food scene for this style of food, and the Mediterranean has so many different flavours and dishes that we can keep the menu fresh and interesting.”
At Esther specifically, this philosophy manifests in dishes that capture the sun-soaked essence of Sicily, southern France and Morocco while remaining firmly grounded in the country’s finest produce.
"We're really lucky to have excellent produce partners in Auckland that allow us to evoke the essence of the Med but remain grounded in local ingredients. A great example of this is our tart fin, which champions Curious Cropper heirloom tomato and Clevedon Buffalo curd. A dish that isn’t out of place along the French coast but champions local suppliers that Auckland foodies know and love.”
Simplicity, however, never means a lack of sophistication. Sean believes a dish should never have anywhere to hide on a plate.
"I don’t believe in extra ornaments for the sake of it. While a dish may appear simple, there’s a science behind it. Not only the ingredients, but also other elements such as the temperature at which it’s served. Our Lake Ohau Wagyu is served with roasted garlic and burnt lemon because they enhance rather than camouflage - that's the key when deciding what to add to a dish, it’s a fine line to walk.”
This philosophy extends seamlessly with all his culinary creations, balancing vibrant flavours with understated presentation.
Among Sean’s signature dishes, which perfectly illustrate this fusion of New Zealand and Mediterranean sensibilities, is the coastal lamb shoulder with roasted garlic, anchovy and Moroccan olives.
"It is an excellent example of where the Med meets Aotearoa,” says Sean "We’re known for our exquisite lamb, which lends itself beautifully to the Moroccan flavours. It’s a crowd favourite for a reason. The Waitoa whole roast spatchcock chicken with harissa, Romesco and lemon is another example of the two cultures blending beautifully.”
These dishes reflect not just his mastery of ingredients but his ability to translate the essence of his travels and experiences onto a plate.
Yet Sean’s culinary vision stretches far beyond the plate. His role now encompasses mentorship and leadership, shaping not only menus but the next generation of hospitality talent.
"Having restaurants across New Zealand, Australia and Singapore means I get to be immersed in each local scene and bring the best of what I’m seeing to the other properties. Having different offerings, in different cities, for different audiences, has meant I’ve grown as a restaurateur and been able to connect a lot more deeply with customers.”
That same ethos - of generosity, creativity and connection - flows through his teams, his dining rooms and even his personal kitchen. When cooking for family and friends, Sean keeps things unfussy and communal.
"Less of a dish and more of a style - our go-to is usually a BBQ. You can always rustle up a classic BBQ and some epic salads in a hurry and it’s easy to cater for a group regardless of whether it’s another couple or the whole friend group.
That sense of warmth and familiarity traces back to his earliest food memories. "I used to enjoy cooking lunches for my siblings - often just simple things like eggs. My Grandmother's use of suet fat in pastry and dumplings sticks out as a core memory. I found that super intriguing, how versatile it was and it really got me thinking about food.”
Even now, simplicity and comfort define his personal palate. "I like to treat myself to a plate of black pudding and eggs for breakfast - it’s a strong way to start the day in my opinion. I’m a carnivore at heart, so I’ll grab a Betty’s burger then organise a very large plump chook for dinner, simply roasted in the oven.”
Off duty, his appetite for great produce never wanes. "I like to eat tapas-style dishes and end up with a large steak to share. I’m a big fan of Una Mas at Coogee Pavilion. The environment is delightful and Jordan Toft’s food is bang on good!”
When he’s at home, one staple always finds its way onto the counter: "A good Dijon mustard. It’s excellent with cold cuts, folded into a warm sauce, or slathered over a big buttery home-cooked steak.”
It’s this same ingredient-led, sun-drenched simplicity that has shaped Sean’s influence on Auckland’s dining scene - inspiring a new generation of Chefs and diners who value authenticity, provenance and joy at the table and living on at Esther, where every bite tells a story of travel, taste and treasured memory.
