By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Sydney’s dining scene has just been blessed with a pre-Christmas miracle. Rising from the hallowed halls of the former Rose Bay Uniting Church, the newly opened Aambra restaurant has transformed a 120-year-old house of worship into a Levantine sanctuary of flavour and fire.
For more than a decade, the church sat in silence. Now, its vaulted ceilings and technicolour stained-glass windows will echo with the sizzle of flame grills and the clink of wine glasses.
Owner Cristian Gorgees clearly never lost faith. When he spotted the property for sale, he snapped it up in 20 minutes and spent the next three years turning it into what he describes as a "modern-day sanctuary that blends old-world rituals with modern-day elegance.”
Working alongside interior designer Paul Papadopoulos from DS17, Cristian has preserved the church’s soul while layering in touches of Levantine magic. Italian marble floors in shades of burgundy and peach, a brass and linen light sculpture hanging from the 10-metre-high cathedral ceiling and an open-plan kitchen running the length of the space all give diners a front-row seat to culinary devotion.
It is here that ex-Nour Chef Gianluca Lonati orchestrates a menu that is nothing short of a revelation. Every dish is rooted in centuries-old family recipes from Cristian’s Iraqi heritage and inspired by the wider Levant, including Lebanon, Jordan, Cyprus and Egypt.
Gianluca’s creations are meant to engage the five senses, with each bite telling a story. "Levantine cuisine is steeped in traditions and rituals and is about so much more than simply eating,” he says. "We want guests to experience each dish in a way that elicits memories long after they’ve gone home.”
Guests might start with a samke harra whiting sando with whipped tahini, freshly-shucked rock oysters with fermented onion and isot oil, or raw beef with lupini and baharat. Small plates continue the spiritual journey with tuna kibbeh nayeh, tongue shawarma skewers and wood-fired chicken manti with whey.
The main acts read like scripture: blue grouper masgouf served whole with tamarind and tomato, a dry-aged carob duck crown, merguez-stuffed lamb saddle and an 800-gram Wagyu rib eye cooked over vibrant flames. For those seeking divine intervention on the palate, the Moreton Bay bug borek and sesame-wrapped dolma are heavenly.
The wine list, curated by Sommelier Sasa Savic, spans 130 bottles and includes everything from local gems to Lebanese classics like Chateau Musar. Signature cocktails are equally inspired: the arak elderflower Spritz, watermelon Martini and jaffa Margarita pair effortlessly with both food and the alfresco garden setting.
Cristian calls it a garden oasis, with olive trees, lounge chairs and a multi-level wraparound deck where sunlight filters through the original stained-glass windows, painting diners in shades of peach and burgundy.
Aambra is designed for shared experiences and the church’s heritage provides the perfect backdrop for gathering. Sit inside and let the cathedral ceiling lift your spirits, or recline outdoors and enjoy the coastal air as you dig into flame-grilled Levantine delights. The space is a careful mix of solemnity and celebration, a place where you can worship at the altar of fine cuisine without feeling like you are under sermon.
While Greek and Chinese cuisines have made waves in Sydney this year, Levantine food is now claiming its own congregation. Aambra is leading the revival with authenticity and flair, encouraging Sydneysiders to step inside and make their own sacred memories over food that is both grounded in tradition and elevated by technique.
Consider your Sunday best officially upgraded!
