Pinot Gris - A Cellar Door Celebrity

Pinot Gris - A Cellar Door Celebrity

By David Ellis from vintnews.

Regular readers will know we have an aversion to reviewing wines on the basis of some gong they’ve won at some show or other – our belief being that if we give one maker a plug for their success, we need to give every medal-winner a plug… and with that many medals flying around the place we’d need the whole of a publication like this just to list them.

However that doesn’t stop us giving mention to recognition achieved by a wine from small family concern, Logan Wines in the Central Ranges of NSW. Because their Weemala Pinot Gris off the family’s cold climate Orange vineyards is interesting in that it is now the consistently most-popular wine at their Mudgee cellar door, becoming as winemaker Peter Logan says “something of a celebrity in its own right.”

The just-released 2015 is probably good proof why, with delicate yet discernible bright pear, orange rind and nutty flavours, a crunchy finish and lovely bouquet. And at $19.95 it’s a wine you’ll find equally enjoyable with anything from sashimi to antipasto or a traditional roast chicken.

One to note: Tasmania’ Heemskerk has vineyards in some of the most southerly and therefore coolest grape-growing regions in Australia, places that allow for slow and gentle ripening of fruit and the subsequent preservation of important natural acid.

Named after the flagship of Dutch explorer and merchant Abel Tasman who sighted Tasmania’s west coast in November 1642, Heemskerk was founded in 1975, had a colourful history with a half-dozen owners and mixed fortunes over the years, and is now part of Treasury Wine Estates. And a Heemskerk Coal River Valley Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2010 that’s just been released is a little ripper of a bubbly we think you’ll find a cracker for party-room celebrating.

From a vintage whose growing conditions were close to ideal, this is a sparkling with a bouquet of delicate citrus blossom, fresh lemon and notes of almond nougat, with the almond nougat together with preserved lemon notes the most forward on the palate. There’s also a nice chalky minerality; a beaut special-occasion drop at $60.