By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Bistro Red Lion by Manu has officially turned one and Sydney’s Inner West is invited to the party!
Nestled upstairs in the historic 196-year-old Red Lion Hotel, the elegant eatery has spent the past 12 months giving one of Australia’s most beloved French Chefs the opportunity to showcase his signature Gallic glamour, retro recipes and heartfelt hospitality.
"It’s a bit of an emotional moment for me because I kind of walked away from the industry after being burnt too many times,” Manu told guests at the first birthday celebration. "It was getting a bit too hard… to juggle with all the different strings in my life.”
For Manu, the welcome to the Red Lion family was a turning point. "A year and a half ago, I was offered to join the Laundy Family [the fourth generation family-run hospitality group with more than 45 venues across NSW] here at the Red Lion.
"I've got to say it's probably the best decision I've made so far in my life. So, thank you,” he said, sharing his appreciation for all the staff who had supported his journey to date.
However, Manu also extended his acknowledgement beyond his professional peers. "I would like to also thank Australia in general for embracing me and welcoming me here in Australia 26 years ago,” Manu said, reflecting on his transition from backpacker to bistro boss.
The sentiment of gratitude is woven into every corner of Red Lion, which serves as more than a mere restaurant, offering instead a genuinely culinary sanctuary for Manu. "I hope I'm going to be running this beautiful bistro for a very long time because this is my happy place,” he said.
When Bistro Red Lion by Manu opened its doors in July 2024, it marked the long-awaited return of French-Australian Chef Manu Feildel to the kitchen after a four-year hiatus.
"I was born in the industry,” Manu explained. "My mum was a beautiful home cook, my dad was a Chef, my grandad was a Chef, my great grandad was a Pastry Chef and now, after doing the show Who Do You Think You Are?, I've realised I've got six generations in the industry, so that's probably why I'm here today.”
Walking upstairs into the bistro feels like stepping into a pocket of Paris. Linen-covered tables and provincial-style pendent lights set a refined yet cosy scene. Illustrations add a playful accent to the walls, while the wraparound balcony offers alfresco seating with leafy Darling Street views.
Tucked away near the staircase is the Lion’s Den, a snug, library-inspired nook perfect for cocktails before or after dinner. Even the grand staircase leading up to the space steps up, with a whimsical mural that sets the tone for what’s to come.
Atmosphere aside, what has cemented the bistro’s reputation as one of Sydney’s standout dining spots is the food. Manu’s menu is a celebration of French bistro classics, with dishes that tell nostalgic stories of his family's kitchen and culinary heritage.
His father’s French country-style terrine with red onion jam and toasted sourdough is a nod to unpretentious tradition, while more playful touches appear in amuse-bouche like beetroot cured eggs with yolk mayo. Starters continue the French love affair, with options including Davidson plum and Olsson Saly cured salmon and a double baked Comte cheese soufflé that’s every bit as indulgent as it sounds.
For mains, the generosity continues. There’s a caviar-topped creamy scallop boudin reminiscent of his time at L'Etoile and pork cutlets served with roasted grapes and verjus, before desserts bring the evening to a decadent close, leading with the Floating Island - a chiffon-like meringue, sitting atop a pool of anglaise and dressed in salted caramel sauce and toasted almond.
If the upstairs dining room is Manu’s stage, the downstairs pub remains the soul of the Red Lion. A beloved Inner West landmark since 1828, it has always been a gathering place for locals.
Now, thanks to a $1.5 million renovation led by Laundy Hotels and the Richardson family, the venue manages to straddle two worlds: a heritage pub with a modern edge. Downstairs still serves up classic Aussie favourites from 10 am daily, including its legendary hand-crumbed schnitzel, while upstairs you can linger over three courses of French indulgence.
The restoration of the pub was a passion project for Danielle and Shane Richardson, who partnered with Sydney design collective Co: Aika to balance history with new life. The original wood panelling, fireplace and grand staircase remain, but fresh interiors give the Red Lion a contemporary elegance without losing its heart.
After one year, Bistro Red Lion by Manu has proved it is more than just a restaurant. It’s a meeting place, a neighbourhood favourite and a reminder of the joy that comes from sharing food made with care.
With its mix of Parisian style, French country comfort and Inner West charm, it’s no wonder locals and visitors alike are raising a toast to its first birthday. In the most très delicieux way!
