By John Rozentals.
my favourite styles of red wine is made from a blend of grenache, shiraz and
mataro (aka mourvedre), shortened, obviously enough, to GSM. Sometimes, too,
shiraz is majority variety.
Natasha Mooney has named a brand after Walter, her possibly wrongly accused great-great-grandfather.
style originated in France’s Rhone Valley, and in Australia is really only made
in the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, virtually the areas here that grow all
wines generally have a down-to-earth richness to them, and are usually
earmarked by the heady perfumes of the dominant grenache component.
of the week, The Thief? 2016 Grenache Shiraz Mataro, from the Barossa, fits the
bill nicely, though it’s still a very young wine in need of a few years
cellaring to show the best of its potentially mellow, full-bodied richness.
comes with an appealing story about the origins of the brand’s name.
Natasha Mooney had a great-great-grandfather named Walter Mooney, who was an
early settler in Melrose, the oldest town in South Australia’s Flinders Ranges.
charged with stealing a neighbour’s cow and slaughtering it with a herd of his
own cattle. He was given four years hard labour, though he vehemently disputed
died some 50 years later he was excommunicated and disallowed a Catholic
honour of Walter, the slain cow and a ‘stolen’ religion, Natasha decided to
create a label called simply The Thief? I guess we’ll never know about Walter’s
innocence or guilt, but the story’s a good one … and so is the wine.
Catherine Vale 2016 Arneis ($20): Known as the
"Little Rascal” in its native Piedmont, arneis is beginning to enjoy some
popularity in Australia, and for good reason. It produces well balanced
flavoursome dry whites such as this beauty from the Hunter Valley. I like its
fresh, zesty, citrus-like finish and its biscuity, nutty middle palate.
Vale 2015 Heaven’s Wonder Winifred Barbera ($28): Another variety from Italy’s
Piedmont, barbera has achieved high regard there and is getting lots of use in
Australia, where its medium weight, fresh flavours and soft tannins are eagerly
sought by winemakers. Like shiraz, it produces spicy dry reds with dark-berry
flavours but, as with this one, they’re a degree or two lighter and hence more
versatile in terms of food matching.
2016 Grenache Shiraz Mataro ($22): A solid dry red made by Natasha Mooney using
her own Barossa shiraz and some grenache and mataro grown by one of her
neighbours in the district’s time-honoured bush-vine viticultural style. It’s a
spicy, perfumed dry red that will set perfectly with the last of the meaty,
vegetable-packed cold-weather stews.