By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Henry Onesemo’s journey to the heart of Auckland’s dining scene is as rich and layered as the dishes he creates. Growing up in Samoa, his passion for food was sparked early. He remembers helping in the kitchen as a child and the ritual of early Sunday morning trips to the fish market with his Dad to make the umu before church.
One of his earliest food memories was eating palusami with taro leaves, onions and coconut milk wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in the umu.
"At 17, I moved to the USA and began to miss the food from home. I was on a mission to re-create palusami without taro leaves, fresh coconut milk, banana leaves, or an umu. That journey led me to rediscover and reimagine childhood memories and gave birth to my love for cooking.”
After training as a Chef in Samoa and working stints in Hawaii and Florida, a visit to New Zealand changed everything. He dined at Michael Meredith’s restaurant and felt compelled to reach out.
Michael took him on in 2014 and under his mentorship, Henry grew his career in Auckland. He later spent time in Thailand at Gaa in Bangkok, where traditional Indian food was presented in a Michelin-starred setting. The COVID pandemic prompted a return to New Zealand, where he became Head Chef at East St. Hall before launching Tala with his wife Debby in 2022.
Tala, which means ‘story’ in Samoan, is more than a restaurant. It is Henry’s way of translating culture and memory onto a plate. "I try to choose dishes that highlight Samoan cooking techniques and dishes with historic significance. For example, dishes inspired by German colonialism and Chinese labourers influenced Samoan culture and food.
"Sapasui is an iconic Samoan dish that every Samoan will probably tell you their mother makes the best but it has deep Chinese roots.”
Speaking of stories, Henry also leaves a copy of Treasure Island by Robert Louis Stevenson on the table for single diners. "This is an homage to Stevenson, who was influential in the Mau movement, which led to Samoan independence from the British.”
However, not every dish has an overt tale. Other narratives are ritualistic and deeply rooted in daily life, such as the traditional Samoan ape fafano, a hand-washing ceremony giving thanks to guests, presented after the main meal and before dessert.
Auckland was a natural choice for Tala. "It has one of the biggest Samoan populations in the world. Yet, the cuisine is quite underrepresented. It has typically only been seen at takeaway shops or night markets rather than a true brick-and-mortar restaurant.
"When opening Tala, we knew we had to educate diners and peel back stereotypes about Samoan food. That’s why we intentionally chose fine dining.” Henry’s goal is to create a bridge between casual takeaways and high-end dining, opening space for future generations of Samoan Chefs to innovate.
The umu chicken is perhaps the most vivid expression of this approach. "Hot stones are placed inside a brined chicken, wrapped in banana leaves and stuffed with more banana leaves and hot rocks to cook it from the inside.
"We then cover it with more banana leaves and burlap and let it cook for an hour. The banana leaves keep the chicken moist and give it a unique flavour. The chicken is finished with potato and leek cream, chives and Jerusalem artichoke crisps. It’s a true representation of a Samoan food memory translated into the restaurant experience.”
Henry is proud to celebrate that Tala has shifted the conversation about Pacific cuisine in Auckland. "Firstly, the conversation has become more specific when it comes to Pacific food. I’ve seen more Pacific Chefs identify with their culture - Tongan, Fijian, Maori - rather than saying they are Pasifika.
"Secondly, the casual Pacific space hasn’t really come to the market yet, but I hope we take our time and do it properly. I don’t want to see a tiki bar or Miami-style bistro misrepresent Pasifika food.”
That same spirit of leadership explains why mentorship is also a cornerstone for Henry. "I work with Celia Hay at NZ School of Food and Wine to give young Pasifika Chefs experience in the kitchen and front of house. This has turned into employment opportunities. I currently have one young half-Samoan Chef who started as a dishwasher and is now an integral part of our larder section.
"For the future of Pacific culinary leadership, I’d like to see more Pacific Chefs in Head Chef, Executive Chef and leadership roles. Seeing someone they identify with motivates young Chefs to realise their dreams.”
Ultimately, Henry’s hospitality philosophy is deeply influenced by his upbringing. "This goes back to my Samoan culture, where three things were instilled in us - respect (fa’aloalo), servitude (tautua) and gratitude (agaga faaetei).
"In Samoa, gratitude is not about people being grateful that you are serving them, but being grateful to be of service. This is a huge part of what we do at Tala. The biggest influence for me was my Dad.”
Whether serving up Tala patrons or friends at home, Henry has elevated Samoan food in New Zealand, offering diners a taste of stories, culture and hospitality.
"I hope diners have a better understanding of Samoan cuisine, the flavours, techniques and the stories behind the dishes at Tala. I hope they felt Samoan hospitality.”
