By Leigh O’Connor.
New Zealand does Summer with the volume knob cranked: long days, salty hair and that "why is the sun still out at 8.45 pm?” energy.
Nowhere is that vibe more dramatic than on the country’s black sand beaches - those wild-west stretches where the Tasman Sea rolls in like it owns the place and the sand looks like someone tipped a charcoal latte across the coast.
Most of the famous ones sit on the North Island’s west coast, especially around Auckland and down toward Raglan and Taranaki.
First rule of black sand club: it gets hot. Like ‘accidentally walked on a frying pan’ hot. That iron-rich volcanic sand soaks up sun and radiates it right back at your poor city feet. So, pack jandals (thongs), reef shoes, or accept you’ll be doing the happy-hobbit dance from towel to water.
Pro tip: arrive early, claim a spot and enjoy the beach before the sand turns into lava around lunchtime.
Pick your battleground. Piha is the poster child - black sand, brooding cliffs and Lion Rock sitting smugly in the middle like a selfie magnet. It’s gorgeous, yes, but also popular, so expect a parade of surfboards, picnics and at least one person trying to fly a kite in zero wind.
Muriwai is more open and windswept, with dunes you can scramble and a gannet colony nearby if you want a side of nature documentary with your swim. Feeling more low-key? Karekare brings moody, tucked-away magic, while Bethells/Te Henga has wide-open sand and a ‘keep driving, you’re nearly there’ reward factor.
Now, about that ‘swim’. The west coast is not your gentle postcard lagoon. These beaches face open ocean, meaning bigger surf and more sneaky currents than the east coast. Rips are the main party-poopers here: fast channels of water that head seaward and can drag you out quicker than your mate disappears when it’s their turn to buy ice cream.
If you’re not a confident ocean swimmer, keep it shallow, swim between the flags and don’t be shy about asking lifeguards where the chill bits are. If you do get caught in a rip, don’t try to out-muscle the ocean (it has bigger biceps). Float, stay calm and signal for help.
Black sand beaches aren’t just for splashing, either. They’re built for roaming. Wander the shoreline at low tide, poke around rock pools, or follow tracks into native bush that smells like Summer after rain.
Piha and Karekare have waterfall walks nearby, which is basically a two-for-one holiday: beach hair followed by rainforest glow-up. If you’re a surfer, congrats - you’ve found your playground. The waves here are why half of Auckland seems to own a board.
A little etiquette, because these places are stunners and deserve it. Take your rubbish with you (including the sneaky bottle caps), stay off fragile dunes and give wildlife space. The beaches may look tough and moody, but the ecosystems are surprisingly delicate.
Also, check for local notices - sometimes tracks close due to slips or conservation work and nobody wants their epic day out derailed by a ‘no entry’ sign.
So yes, come for the black-sand novelty, the cinematic cliffs and the "am I in a music video?” atmosphere. Stay for the full Summer ritual: toes in cool surf, shoulders pinking up and the feeling that you’ve stumbled onto a wilder version of the beach you thought you knew.
Just remember your jandals. Seriously.
