By Leigh O’Connor.
There is a certain magic about the King Valley. The air carries the perfume of eucalyptus and vineyard earth, the hills roll in soft greens and golds, and the winding country roads always seem to lead to a glass of wine and a meal that lingers in memory.
It is here, at the gateway to this little piece of Italy in Victoria’s High Country, that Lancemore Milawa is writing its next chapter. At the centre of it all stands Merlot, the hotel’s signature restaurant, now under the direction of one of Australia’s most respected Chefs, Joel Grudnoff.
Joel’s arrival feels like a meeting of kindred spirits - a Chef whose career has always been about place, produce and possibility, stepping into a region where makers, growers and vintners live by those same values.
His path has been shaped by a childhood on a farm in Northern New South Wales and more than two decades in some of the country’s most celebrated kitchens. Most recently, he made his mark in the Barossa Valley, where his work at Appellation and Contour cemented his reputation for dishes that are as instinctive as they are refined. Now, the King Valley offers him a new canvas.
Lancemore Milawa, too, has undergone a transformation that seems destined for this moment. Reimagined by award-winning designer Hana Hakim of The Stella Collective, the hotel is a study in Mediterranean inspiration and regional grounding.
Smooth curves in polished concrete soften against warm teak joinery, mosaic tiles glint softly in the light and every surface invites touch. There is a sense of elevated luxury, but also of something deeply human - as though the textures of the King Valley itself have been drawn into the walls.
For Joel, this design ethos resonates deeply. "The multi-sensory and textural approach translates perfectly from interior to plate,” he says. "I look forward to exploring that story with everyone we welcome through our doors.”
The new menu, unveiled in June 2025, is a reflection of that philosophy. It is terroir-driven, fluid and alive with the rhythms of the season. A wheel of Milawa blue might anchor one dish, its tang softened by honey and local figs. A freshly unearthed truffle could inspire a spontaneous addition, shaved generously over handmade pasta that carries the spirit of the valley’s Italian heritage.
Conversations with a farmer at dawn, hands still earthy from the field, may spark a dish that appears on the menu that very night. Nothing is fixed; everything is guided by instinct, landscape and a reverence for craft.
"There’s a spirit of craftsmanship here,” Joel says, "among the cheesemakers, vintners, bakers and farmers, that mirrors how I like to cook. It’s raw, authentic and constantly evolving.”
Guests dining at Merlot now find themselves immersed in more than just a meal. Vineyard views stretch out beyond the windows, while wines from neighbouring producers - bold Italian varietals that taste of both heritage and experimentation - are poured with care. The room itself, serene yet alive with texture, amplifies the connection between plate and place. It is an experience that is not merely about flavour but about story, sensation and belonging.
For General Manager Serena Sykes, the collaboration captures everything Lancemore Milawa stands for. "We’re setting a new standard for regional luxury and making Lancemore Milawa an unmissable stop on the gourmet travel map,” she says.
"Joel brings an inspiring new chapter to Merlot - one that honours the local landscape and celebrates the magic of true hospitality.”
From interiors that invite the touch of fingertips to dishes that draw you deeper into the King Valley’s character, Merlot offers an immersive journey. Under Joel Grudnoff’s direction, it is a place where terroir meets creativity, where the land speaks through flavour and where the essence of this remarkable region finds its most delicious expression.
