By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
If you’re an Aussie dreaming of an indulgent escape but your annual leave is yet to be approved, there’s a flavour-packed destination waiting just a few hours from your doorstep.
Tucked into the rolling vines of McLaren Vale, Maxwell Wines offers the kind of local getaway that delivers all the decadence of a European food tour - with no long-haul flight required.
At the heart of this South Australian gem is Executive Chef Fabian Lehmann, a German-born, Michelin-trained talent who’s swapped the kitchens of some of Europe’s most prestigious restaurants - including Apicius in Bad Zwischenahn and Annen Etage in Oslo - for the sun-soaked terroir of McLaren Vale.
Under his leadership, the Maxwell Wines Restaurant is earning national attention as one of Australia’s most exciting dining destinations.
"Those experiences taught me discipline, attention to detail and most importantly, respect for ingredients,” Fabian says. "Working to high standards and being consistent, you can’t cut corners.”
While he’s honed his craft in the structured cooking quarters of Deutschland and the minimalist spaces of Norway, Fabian credits his time in Australia with unlocking a new creative freedom.
"Germany gave me a deep respect for structure, tradition and precision. Norway taught me minimalism, how to let a single ingredient shine without too much interference. There’s an openness and creativity here in Australia that’s incredible. The access to native ingredients and passionate small producers has been amazing.”
That blend of discipline and innovation is clear at Maxwell Wines Restaurant, where Fabian’s tasting menus walk a delicate line between reverence and reinvention. One dish that best captures the essence of Maxwell is the oyster course, which has appeared in various forms over the past five years.
"It’s an oyster pearl, caviar and sea blight all served in an edible oyster shell. It's the first course on our tasting menu and it really sets the tone of what's to come next.”
Fabian doesn’t just cook with flavour in mind - he cooks with a sense of place:
"Terroir is about creating a sense of place. We design dishes that reflect and complement the wines - capturing the character of McLaren Vale through flavour, texture and balance. It’s about telling a local story on every plate.”
That commitment to storytelling extends beyond the menu and into every relationship he builds. "I have been working from day one with Elis butchers down the road. We have an amazing relationship, Ian and Rian will always track down the best quality ingredients, dry ageing, smoking or custom-made sausages.”
As well as a love for working with local producers, Fabian is also just as passionate about sustainability, which moves beyond buzzword to a mindset that shapes every part of his kitchen.
"We operate with a ‘whole ingredient’ approach. Whether it’s a vegetable or a whole animal, we use every part. Our off-cuts become stocks, ferments and sauces.”
Under his leadership, Maxwell Wines Restaurant has soared to new heights, named South Australian Restaurant of the Year in Gourmet Traveller's 2024 Restaurant Guide and a 16 Chef-hat rating from the Australian Good Food and Travel Guide. However, for Fabian, accolades are a byproduct, not the goal.
"[While] they are incredibly humbling. Awards are never the goal, but they do validate the hard work and passion our entire team puts in every day. It motivates us to keep pushing boundaries while staying true to who we are.”
That said, the pressure is real. "It certainly raised expectations! There is more pressure, but it also pushes us to be better. We’ve become more intentional with every decision, knowing that guests are coming with high hopes. At the end of the day, it’s about creating a meaningful experience for every single person who walks through our doors.”
For aspiring Chefs hoping to follow in his footsteps, Fabian’s advice is simple. "Be patient and learn your basics. The industry can be tough, stay curious and never stop respecting the process.”
This curiosity is what sets Maxwell Restaurant apart, even with his demanding schedule, Fabian continues to find creative inspiration outside the kitchen. "Often my best ideas come when I’m far away from the kitchen on holidays or at home with my family.”
Sometimes, inspiration comes from unexpected places - like a savoury spin on a childhood dessert. "It wasn’t a dish from my childhood, but from my first fine dining experience in Copenhagen in Tivoli gardens that truly stuck with me. They served me a savoury take on a classic 'Berliner' [doughnut] filled with cheese and bacon and dusted it with vinegar powder instead of icing sugar.
"I remember thinking, ‘this is so wrong…and yet so good’. That moment shifted my perspective. It showed me how food can break the rules, challenge expectations and still be memorable.”
It’s this spirit - the desire to honour tradition while pushing boundaries - that makes a meal at Maxwell Wines Restaurant a culinary escape worth travelling for.
