By Leigh O’Connor.
In the leafy enclave of Ripponlea, a quietly unassuming façade - once a suburban bank - now glows with the subtle promise of Attica. As it turns 20 years old, the restaurant stands not merely as a place to dine, but as a sanctuary of storytelling, a haven of soulful design and culinary courage.
When Attica began in 2003, it was a modest venture, but its true destiny unfolded when New Zealand–born Chef Ben Shewry stepped into the kitchen. Raised on the rugged slopes of North Taranaki, Ben carried with him memories of farm life, the pull of the sea and the elemental power of nature.
Those roots became the lifeblood of Attica’s spirit, shaping a restaurant that would go on to transform the way Australia dines.
The journey was anything but easy. For years, Attica struggled to find its voice. Ben’s bold inclusion of native ingredients - kangaroo, bunya-bunya seeds, pearl meat, wattle, even ants - was radical in a dining culture that had not yet embraced the deep bounty of the land.
Yet he persisted, fuelled by a belief that food could be evocative, emotional, even sacred. In each dish he sought to connect people not only to flavour, but to memory, landscape and story.
That persistence bore fruit. Slowly but surely, Attica emerged as a beacon, a restaurant where creativity was not a garnish but the foundation.
Global recognition followed, as lists and awards began to acknowledge what Melbourne already knew: that here was a dining room unlike any other, one capable of both delight and provocation.
In 2015, Ben became sole owner of Attica, transforming it from simply the place he worked into the home of his vision. With ownership came freedom and with freedom came an even deeper commitment to authenticity. Attica was no longer just a restaurant; it was a reflection of its Chef’s life, values and relentless pursuit of truth on the plate.
The years of the pandemic tested that resolve. With Melbourne’s long lockdowns shuttering dining rooms for months, Attica pivoted, serving comfort food in takeaway boxes that carried not just nourishment but hope. In those moments, Ben discovered that Attica was more than a fine dining destination - it was a community lifeline, a symbol of resilience and care.
Yet with success came reflection. After years of acclaim, Ben began to speak openly about the cost of obsession - the toll awards and expectations can take on a Chef’s mental health and creativity.
His honesty has only deepened Attica’s story, reminding us that behind every plate of food is a human being, vulnerable and searching, just like the rest of us.
As Attica turns twenty, it stands as both milestone and mirror. It is a mosaic of memory, land and culture. Each dish whispers of Ben’s Taranaki childhood, of First Peoples’ wisdom, of long nights in pursuit of something original and true.
Attica at twenty is not simply a restaurant - it is an invitation. An invitation to taste stories, to honour obsession, to believe in the power of food to move us. Above all, it is a celebration of the relentless and fearless journey of Ben Shewry.
