By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Christmas is the perfect time to break bread. Literally. When it comes to choosing between the dense, spiced stollen or the lofty, elegant panettone, opinions can get as heated as a Summer barbeque.
We put Chefs Navarre Top (on the stollen side) and Orazio D’Eli (making the point for panettone) in a ring for the ultimate Christmas bread battle.
Every Yule, Rechabite (Double Rainbow) Head Chef, Navarre Top is transported back to childhood when a parcel from Uncle Michael would arrive, wrapped in care and packed with stollen.
"The moment we peeled back that parchment paper, the scent of rum-soaked fruit, marzipan and cardamom would fill the entire house - instant Christmas, before we'd even decorated the tree,” he recalls. "My brother and I would crowd around as my mother sliced it with ceremony, revealing that golden streak of marzipan through the centre. Uncle Michael always said stollen was meant to be savoured slowly, slice by slice, with strong coffee (brandy optional but encouraged).”
Navarre says the magic of stollen isn’t just nostalgia. "Stollen travels. My uncle mailed these loaves across continents and they arrived perfect every time. Panettone is a delicate tower that goes stale within days and crumbles if you look at it wrong. Stollen is a survivor - wrapped properly, it lasts for months and benefits from aging.”
Don’t mistake Stollen’s density for heaviness - it’s deliberate. "The ‘dense and old-fashioned’ critique misses the point entirely - that's like criticising a striploin for not being light. Stollen's density is its superpower. Use high-quality dried fruit soaked in good rum or brandy for at least 24 hours.
"Toast your spices fresh and grind them yourself. Don’t skimp on the butter; the richness is essential. The marzipan log should be substantial, not a token gesture. After baking, brush generously with melted butter while still warm, then bury the entire loaf in powdered sugar. Wrap tightly in parchment and foil. Let it rest for at least one week, preferably three. Patience is non-negotiable.”
For Navarre, the ultimate stollen filling combines tradition with a twist. "Marzipan centre (traditional) but add a layer of dark chocolate studded throughout the dough, alongside the rum-soaked fruit. Use a mix of dried cherries, apricots and golden raisins for tartness and colour, add candied orange peel and crystallised ginger for complexity.
"For the truly adventurous: a thin layer of pistachio paste alongside the marzipan. The green and white looks stunning when sliced and the flavour combination is so damn good, it’s enough to win over Italian dessert purists.”
When it comes to the final word on the stollen v panettone debate, Navarre is unequivocal. "Panettone is pretty to look at but gone in three days. Stollen gets better for three months. One lasts through Christmas. The other is Christmas. Stollen travelled the world to bring my family together - panettone can barely make it across town. Case closed.”
For Da Orazio and Da Orazio Pasticceria’s Orazio D’Elia, panettone is not just bread, it’s a symbol of Italian heritage and Christmas elegance. "It deserves the crown because it’s made with real care, everyone who makes it pours their heart into it. Most of all, it’s a labour of love that takes three days and a series of precise, carefully timed steps to get just right.”
Critics might claim panettone is more style than substance, but Orazio disagrees. "Even if it were just a loaf, it would still be a beautiful, brioche-style bread. What truly elevates it is the creativity each baker brings. At Da Orazio Pasticceria this year, we’re making three varieties: classic Milanese with orange and sultanas, triple chocolate and pistachio. Each one has its own personality and flavour story.”
When it comes to pairing panettone with beverages, Orazio is a firm believer in indulgence. "For me, the ultimate pairing is serving it with a beautiful, silky zabaglione.”
Orazio sees panettone as more than just dessert - it’s a statement. "Panettone is a Christmas tradition, a blend of dessert, statement piece and cultural symbol. It carries heritage, flavour and celebration all at once.”
There is a technique to achieving panettone’s signature airy dome. "As soon as it comes out of the oven, it must be hung upside down for a full day. That’s the secret to keeping it tall, airy and perfectly domed.”
When asked why panettone should reign supreme over stollen? Orazio keeps it simple. "It literally and figuratively stands tall among all the other Christmas sweets; elegant, airy and unmistakably festive. Simple: Italians do it better.”
Verdict
So, who wins the Battle of the Christmas bread? On one side, you have stollen - dense, buttery, rum-soaked and resilient enough to survive shipping across continents while improving with age. On the other hand, panettone - tall, fluffy and delicate, a labour of love that’s as much a statement piece as it is dessert.
Whether you’re drawn to the comforting, rich familiarity of stollen or the elegant, Italian airiness of panettone, one thing is clear - both breads embody the spirit of Christmas. The decision is less about right or wrong and more about personal taste, family tradition and the flavours that make your festive season feel complete.
Christmas might be messy, sticky and chaotic in true Aussie style, but at least your festive bread is anything but boring.
