By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Sydney’s Italian scene has just gone full Rat Pack. Osteria Luna opened at the start of December beneath The Charles Brasserie & Bar in a 1938 Art Deco building and it is a dimly lit, velvet-draped descent into old-school glamour. The kind of place where time slows, glasses clink and pasta is practically holy.
Executive Chef Billy Hannigan and Head Chef Peter Fiander have conjured a menu rooted in simplicity but elevated with theatre. Every dish feels cinematic, every bite a nod to classic Italian hospitality, with touches that make the experience unmistakably Osteria Luna.
"Osteria Luna captures the warmth and playfulness of classic Italian dining, where old-school hospitality is revived. It has a moody charm - the kind of place where you feel encouraged to settle in, linger over food, laughter and just a touch of chaos,” Billy says.
Highlights of the menu include conchiglie al forno - which comes in a retro silver dish, bathed in spicy vodka sauce. Piatto di pasta is a single sheet of ravioli stuffed with funghi and finished in brown butter, a quiet nod to indulgence.
Pipis olio e aglio tips its hat to Sinatra himself, while the veal cotoletta offers a house signature with perfectly crisp edges and tender flesh. The crudo bar delivers fresh selections dressed simply with lemon, horseradish and capers, or as a misto mare for those wanting a full parade of oceanic delights.
By day, the muffaletta sandwich rules the counter. Cold cuts, cheese and tangy olive salad are piled on Sicilian sesame bread, a nod to American-Italian lunch counters and a sure-fire cult favourite. Tableside theatre continues with a caprese salad that celebrates peak-season tomatoes, a simple dish elevated into something unforgettable.
As evening falls, Osteria Luna transforms. Waiters swap crisp white jackets for burgundy velvet, the lights dim and the DJ moves between Italo disco, vintage lounge and Rat Pack-era classics spinning on vinyl.
The full menu runs until 1 am, with late-night-only options including a signature Italian meatball burger with provolone and sugo and a shared pasta designed for romance and cinematic indulgence. It is a playground for the night owl, a place where the soundtrack of Italy blends effortlessly with Sydney’s skyline.
Desserts by Head Pastry Chef Rhiann Mead are theatrical in their own right. Bombe gelaska with peach and lemon thyme, Baci chocolate and housemade pistachio gelato with chocolate sorbet are served with flair and guaranteed to inspire sighs of pleasure.
The 106-seat space, designed by Tom Mark Henry, layers burgundy velvet curtains, dark timber, terracotta stone, rich blue leather booths and fringed detailing. Moire wallpaper and high-gloss entrances create a cinematic intimacy, while two private dining rooms, including a terracotta-laid wine room and a small performance stage, deepen the sense of occasion.
Osteria Luna’s wine list, curated by Sommelier Maxime Bellon, celebrates Italian varietals alongside Australian expressions. Generous pours encourage conversation, long lunches, and slow, indulgent nights. Frankie’s Rusty Nail cocktail pays playful homage to Sinatra’s favourite, completing the feeling that Osteria Luna is not just dinner, but a proper Italian night out with style, swagger and soul.
