By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
For most Australians, Champagne is something that waits patiently in the fridge for birthdays, weddings or New Year’s Eve. Sally Hillman is here to upend that long-held tradition, one Tuesday night glass at a time.
A Melbourne-based Champagne specialist, mother and former Vin de Champagne Awards finalist, Sally has spent years immersed in the terroirs of Champagne. Her debut book, 'Celebrating Champagne: A Wine for All Seasons', is her boldest invitation yet: to take the bubbles out of occasion-only exclusives and the rarefied and pour it straight into everyday life.
Landing on shelves this month, the book is part recipe collection, part cultural travelogue and part manifesto for living with sparkle. Inside are 40 French-inspired seasonal recipes, each matched to a Champagne style, from sparkling Shiraz to elegant Cotes des Blancs.
More than a manual, it’s a love letter to terroir and tradition, complete with hand-drawn maps of the region and Sally’s personal tips for pulling off the perfect dish.
Her mission is to gently dismantle the myth that Champagne is ‘too fancy’ for ordinary days. "The idea that Champagne must be reserved for rare occasions is a modern myth – and one I’m gently working to undo,” she explains.
"At its core, Champagne is wine: one of the most versatile food wines in the world, crafted with precision, depth and a profound sense of place or terroir. So why not enjoy it with the same regularity and ease as any other fine wine?
"A Tuesday night, with its quiet rhythm and familiar rituals, is the perfect canvas for a glass of Champagne. Whether shared over a simple meal or sipped in a moment of calm after a long day, Champagne brings a joyful sense of presence - a way of turning the ordinary into something quietly extraordinary.”
It’s this blend of passion and practicality that defines Sally’s style. She isn’t championing caviar and black-tie affairs, but roast chicken, quiche Lorraine, even a baguette with cultured butter.
"It begins with shifting the mindset that luxury must be extravagant,” she says. "I love serving Champagne with simple home cooked recipes. Champagne is predominantly made from familiar grape varieties like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, so it lends itself beautifully to traditional wine pairing principles.
"Understanding what’s in the blend, or assemblage and applying time-honoured guidelines makes it easy to bring Champagne into everyday meals, making it both approachable and versatile at the table.”
In Celebrating Champagne, she matches wines to the rhythms of the year. The lighter styles sing with Summer produce, while full-bodied cuvees pair beautifully with Autumnal comforts.
Sally points to one of her favourites as an example: "Take a classic salade Niçoise - traditionally paired with a Provencal rosé - and reimagine it with a Champagne rosé instead. One with abundant red fruit, a touch of savoury complexity from the Meunier grape and a bright, refreshing minerality can bring unexpected dimension and lift to the dish. It’s a simple swap that turns a familiar meal into something quietly elevated - seasonal, satisfying and just a little bit special.”
She adds another surprise pairing for the festive season. "An unexpected pairing is roti de boeuf with an aromatic Blanc de Noirs Champagne, made predominantly from Pinot Noir grapes. Blanc de Noirs - meaning ‘white from blacks’ - is a richer, fruit-forward style of Champagne crafted entirely from red-skinned grapes.
"These wines often showcase ripe red fruit, earthiness and subtle spice, making them wonderfully expressive and especially suited to hearty, savoury dishes like roast beef. It’s a strikingly elegant alternative to the traditional red wine pairing.”
Beyond flavour, Sally is inspired by the rituals of Champagne itself. "One Champenois ritual I truly fell in love with is enjoying Champagne throughout the entire meal - what the French call un dejeuner or un diner au Champagne.
"Beginning with an aperitif and continuing through each course - from entrée to main, cheese and dessert - the experience becomes a seamless celebration of both Champagne and food. It’s a beautiful tradition that invites you to savour every moment and discover just how versatile Champagne can be at the table. It’s something I love to recreate at dinner parties with friends and family. It always feels effortlessly elegant, yet relaxed and joyful.”
Of course, there’s still the question of how to pour like a pro without the intimidation factor. Sally has her ritual down to an art. "Start by chilling your bottle properly - ideally in an ice bucket filled with equal parts ice and water for 15–20 minutes. Never put Champagne in the freezer no matter how impatient you are!
"When it comes to opening, think grace over drama. Hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle, keep a firm grip on the cork and loosened wire cage and gently twist the bottle (not the cork) until you hear a soft sigh - not a loud pop. It’s about control and care.
"As for glassware, skip the flutes and coupes. A tulip-shaped glass is best - it preserves the bubbles and allows the aromas to open up beautifully. Remember: never fill the glass to the brim. Pour to the widest point of the bowl and top up gently once the mousse settles. It’s a quiet ritual of refinement - and the more often you do it, the more effortless it feels.”
For Sally, Champagne is about more than bubbles. It’s about culture, history and a way of life that blends art, agriculture and emotion. "As a drink, Champagne carries with it the essence of the region. To enjoy it is to participate in a story that extends far beyond the glass.
"When we take the time to understand its origins and traditions – where history, geography and craftsmanship come alive - Champagne becomes not just a beverage, but a celebration of artistry, heritage and presence. My book is a tribute to the entire appellation and the culture that surrounds it.”
With its mix of recipes, maps, storytelling and approachable expertise, ‘Celebrating Champagne’ is as at home on the kitchen bench as it is on the coffee table. Hardback, beautifully designed and published by Hardie Grant, it’s the perfect companion for the curious wine lover or thoughtful host.
Sally sums it up best herself: "Eat well and Champagne often, delight in the discovery!”
