By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Few dishes capture the spirit of Singapore quite like the legendary chilli crab - a glorious, messy and utterly addictive plate of sweet-spicy-savoury perfection that has earned its place on every foodie’s bucket list.
For Lan Kenny, Head Chef at Harry’s Singapore Chilli Crab in Sydney, this dish isn’t just dinner - it’s a rich mix of memory, mastery and mouth-watering tradition.
"I’ll never forget my first real Singapore chilli crab,” he begins with a grin. "I was just a high school kid in the late ’90s, sitting at Jumbo Seafood - the famous Singapore place that’s been serving this dish since 1987. It was one of those moments that stays with you. Back then, I never dreamed I’d end up as Head Chef cooking this same dish 10,000 miles away in Sydney.”
That dream - or destiny, perhaps - found its way to Harry’s, the beloved Sydney restaurant that has been serving up this national treasure since before most people in Singapore had even heard of it.
"What really blows my mind,” says Kenny, "is that Harry, the legendary founder of our Sydney restaurant, actually started serving Singapore chilli crab back in 1982 - five whole years before Jumbo!”
A sauce that tells a story
Ask any Singaporean what makes the dish special, and they’ll tell you it’s all in the sauce. Sweet, spicy and just a little sticky - the holy trinity that transforms crab into comfort.
According to Kenny, there’s no single ‘official’ recipe for Singapore chilli crab. "To be honest, I do not hold any honour to the recipe of either chilli crab or black pepper crab,” he admits. "Singapore chilli crab is a national dish of Singapore. There are probably a thousand different ways to make it. I bet every family back home has their own secret twist.”
At Harry’s, that twist comes straight from the man himself - the restaurant’s founder. "What we’re serving here is Harry’s take on it. The man grew up in a spice merchant family and went a bit wild with it – more than 30 ingredients in his version of chilli crab (probably not so many ingredients in black pepper)!”
Kenny credits Harry’s son-in-law, Andy, for pushing the family legacy even further. "Many other crab dishes on our menu come from Andy, who now runs Harry’s Dining 1982 Group. He’s learned from some incredible Southeast Asian Chefs and spent years hunting through spice markets around the world. The guy’s obsessed… in the best way possible.”
Chilli or pepper? The great crab debate
So, which is better: chilli crab or black pepper crab? It’s a debate that divides households, friendships and dinner tables across Singapore. Kenny laughs when asked to pick a side. "Personally, I’m a black pepper crab guy, but here’s my insider tip - try our very special and hidden-gem dish, the white pepper crab. It has this delicate balance of spice and natural sweetness of Queensland mud crabs. It’s our little secret weapon.”
Still, even the self-confessed black pepper loyalist knows not to mess too much with tradition. "I think we would rather keep it classic and authentic for either chilli crab or black pepper crab. I mean, why mess with something that’s been winning hearts since 1981?” he says.
That said, innovation runs deep in the Harry’s kitchen. "Andy and I have done some very interesting experimental twists on a few of our crab dishes, such as the dry curry crab and sambal crab. These dishes have serious personality and they’ve got their own cult following now. People go crazy for them!”
How to eat crab like a local
Of course, you do not simply eat chilli crab - you experience it. The dish is as much about technique as it is about taste. Kenny’s first rule? "One thing that’s crucial - wear the apron! I cannot stress this enough. It’s the most important thing. After that? Go wild. Eat it however makes you happy.”
That carefree energy is part of what makes the dish so beloved - whether you’re elbow-deep in sauce at a hawker stall in the Lion City or sitting by the water at Walsh Bay Crabhouse. "I think the beauty is you can have it in whatever vibe you prefer!” Kenny says.
"In Singapore, this could really be seen in hawker centres or Raffles Hotel - totally different experiences. We’ve got that range here too. Walsh Bay Crabhouse gives you the waterfront fine dining style, or a laid-back cool industrial vibe at our Potts Point location for a casual night out.”
What to eat (and drink!) with your crab
No chilli crab feast is complete without its trusty sidekick: mantou buns - golden, fluffy little pillows made for soaking up that glorious sauce. Kenny, however, has a few more tricks up his sleeve. "Roti or buns are the perfect partners, no debate! For appetisers, half a dozen Sydney rock oysters will prep your taste buds for the crab adventures and as a magnificent finish to the night, fried ice cream is a must-go!”
As for the perfect pairing? Kenny doesn’t hesitate. "Ice-cold Singapore Tiger beer from the tap - can’t beat it! Otherwise, I recommend a Singapore Sling if you like tropical vibes or, go for a Martini. The bitterness works brilliantly against the slight sweetness in the chilli sauce. Trust me on this one.”
For a dish that’s all about spice and sweetness, it seems fitting that the story of Singapore’s chilli crab is one of heritage and heart. And as long as Chef Lan Kenny is behind the wok-apron tied, Tiger beer in hand - it’s safe to say the King of crabs will continue to reign supreme.
