By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Sydney’s inner west is better known for its alternative aesthetic. However, diners who take a short detour from the graffiti-ed street art, craft breweries and retro vintage stores of King Street and into Delhi ‘O’ Delhi in Newtown will be transported to a restaurant with a more than passing resemblance to the regal dining regions of the bustling Indian capital.
A palace where the fragrance of cumin, cardamom and coriander drifts through the air, while saffron-stained curries glisten like jewels fit for a royal raja.
For 18 years, this beloved institution has plated up Indian eats that hum with heritage, while being gently reimagined for Sydney diners. At the centre of it all is founder Javed Khan, who uses spices to tell stories that carry the elegance of India’s great hotel kitchens and the intimacy of home cooking.
"Balancing spices is like composing a symphony - every spice has its note, its moment, its role,” explains Javed, whose restaurant has become a benchmark for modern Indian dining in Sydney.
"Cumin grounds with earthiness, coriander lifts with citrusy lightness, mustard seeds crackle with nutty pungency, while cloves bring that warm, royal depth. The secret lies in layering - knowing when to add each spice so it sings in harmony rather than shouts. At Delhi ‘O’ Delhi, our goal is always flavour with personality, never heat for the sake of heat.”
It is this philosophy that elevates even the most robust dishes into something elegant and refined. Heat, Javed insists, must be tempered with thought:
"Heat isn’t just chilli - it’s balance. My mother always adjusted her curry depending on who was eating. For children, less chilli but more freshness from lime or coriander. For elders, warmth from ginger or black pepper instead of raw chilli fire. Authenticity lies in layering - reducing chilli while deepening aromatics with cinnamon, cloves, or herbs. In the end, food should always invite you in, not overwhelm you.”
Beyond flavour, the kitchen honours another ancient truth - that food is medicine. "In India, food and Ayurveda are inseparable - spices are both flavour and quiet healers. Turmeric isn’t just golden colour, it soothes and heals from within. Cumin cools and aids digestion. Cardamom refreshes, cleansing heaviness from body and mind. For us, cooking with these spices is about more than taste - it’s about nourishment, memory and well-being, all woven into one plate.”
So where should the home cook begin? Javed offers a beginner’s spice box of sorts: "Cumin, turmeric, coriander powder, red chilli powder and garam masala. Don’t use them all at once. Start with two or three and let them ‘talk’ to each other. That’s how confidence grows in spice cooking.”
This sense of conversation runs through Delhi ‘O’ Delhi’s menu - 85% North Indian with a scattering of Southern gems - where each dish feels like a stanza in a broader poem.
"Our philosophy is simple: spices are storytellers. They carry heritage, memory and comfort. The khasta kachori, flaky with spiced lentils and hints of fennel, coriander and asafoetida, is pure nostalgia from India’s streets. The aminabadi lamb korma is indulgence - cashew, cream and cardamom in quiet balance.
"The kalonji gobhi baingan shows how humble vegetables can be elevated by nigella seeds and masala and the bold beef chutney celebrates spice as fire and character. Every dish tells a story of India’s kitchens, reimagined for today’s diners.”
Perhaps nothing captures the spirit of the kitchen more than the shaan-e-raan - a whole leg of lamb marinated for 24 hours in cinnamon oil and potli spices before being slow-cooked to melting tenderness. "These dishes stand out because the spices aren’t just used - they’re woven into the very story of the dish,” Javed says.
Even desserts glimmer with spice magic. "In kesar oista kulfi, saffron gives warmth and golden radiance, cardamom brings fragrance. Gulab jamun becomes more inviting when its syrup carries cardamom. Even in a simple kheer, a whisper of clove or nutmeg makes it festive. In desserts, spices don’t dominate - they balance richness, add fragrance and create joy in every bite.”
The sourcing of spices feels reverential. "Walking through a spice bazaar in India with the air perfumed by cardamom, cinnamon and cloves - inspires how we work today. Our spices are imported through trusted suppliers who understand authenticity, from Kashmiri chilli to saffron.
"Once here we roast, grind and blend them fresh, just as families in India always have. Alongside, we celebrate Australia’s bounty, working with local farmers for vegetables, proteins and dairy. This harmony - spice bazaar authenticity, trusted suppliers and fresh local produce - is what makes Delhi ‘O’ Delhi unforgettable.”
That harmony will be on full display at the restaurant’s annual Good Karma (Korma) charity dinner on Thursday, September 18, with a set menu designed to delight the palate and raise vital funds for The Kids’ Cancer Project. Expect smoky chermoula tandoori prawns, rich Bengali fish curry, the signature good karma kormaand almond kulfi - every bite underscored by generosity.
At Delhi ‘O’ Delhi, spice is more than flavour. It is rhythm, memory and connection; or, as Javed puts it simply: "Spices are rhythm and depth - let the main ingredient sing and the spices will carry the harmony.”
