By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Perched on Level 80 of The Ritz-Carlton West Side Place, Atria has long been celebrated for its sweeping city views and elevated dining experience. However, now, with Paul Lewis at the helm as Executive Chef, Melbourne’s highest dining destination has literally reached new heights - one that pairs technical mastery with a profound reverence for Australian produce and landscapes.
With a career spanning more than three decades and kitchens across Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam, Japan and the Maldives, Paul brings a worldly perspective to Melbourne’s city centre - while remaining deeply rooted in the local terroir.
"Modern, with respect for the past,” is how he describes his approach, a philosophy that marries age-old techniques such as fermenting, pickling, fire cooking and ageing with contemporary presentation and bold flavour.
Paul’s journey began far from the skyscrapers of Melbourne, at the Redlands Bay Hotel near Brisbane. "Cooking was a way to avoid plastering with my father,” he recalls.
That humble start would launch him into international kitchens, alongside Michelin-starred Chefs such as Andrew Walsh, Gregoire Berger and Dave Pynt, and collaborations with culinary legends Michel Roux Snr and Serge Vieira. Yet despite his global experience, Paul’s focus has always been on respect for ingredients and the stories they tell.
At Atria, this philosophy manifests in the new Spring menu, a tribute to Australia’s rich culinary geography and hyper-seasonality. From Barongarook pork sourced from the Otways to dry-aged Great Ocean duck from near the Twelve Apostles, each dish is designed to reflect the land it comes from.
Vegetables are equally celebrated, with Thorpdale Dutch cream potatoes and Koo Wee Rup asparagus highlighting the season’s bounty. Even desserts tell a story of place, showcasing Victorian citrus, lemon myrtle ice cream and Chief’s Son Whisky dark chocolate.
"Every region of Australia produces something special,” Paul explains. "Whether it’s lush pastures or coastal waters, the environment influences the quality of what’s grown or raised. Our menu reflects these landscapes and the people who nurture them.
"For example, our Great Ocean duck is paired with artichokes grown on the same farm - so every dish tells a story of its origin.” This dedication to provenance extends to his choice of producers. "Local isn’t just geography. It’s connection. We work with growers and makers across Australia who share our values, ensuring each ingredient is cared for and respected.”
Paul’s technical expertise is matched by a commitment to warmth and connection in the dining room. "I want guests to feel the warmth of the experience. I’d love for regulars to know me by name - and vice versa. While Atria sits high above the city, it still feels approachable through our staff, the menu and the stories behind every dish.”
Even outside the kitchen, Paul’s life is guided by simplicity and balance. His mornings often start with walks with his rescue golden retriever, a ritual that clears his head before cooking at home.
"I still cook for myself almost every day. It’s never a chore. I enjoy simple, thoughtful food,” he says. After years abroad, his cravings lean toward hawker-style Asian food, fast and vibrant, reflecting Melbourne’s multicultural culinary scene. In his own kitchen, he relies on beef tallow and salt as foundational ingredients, praising their ability to transform simplicity into depth of flavour.
His earliest food memories also still resonate deeply. "My grandmother’s Scottish clootie dumpling - fried and served with ham, eggs and tomato sauce - was the dish that first made me fall in love with cooking. It’s a recipe I still make every Christmas. That nostalgia, that sense of heritage, is a big part of how I approach food.”
Today, family and friends continue to experience Paul’s hospitality in full force through his signature approach to entertaining. "I’ve got a custom-built two-and-a-half-metre drum smoker from Bali. When I host, I fill it with different cuts of meat and let the fire do its thing. It’s about connection - people gather, share food and drinks and enjoy each other’s company. That’s what food is truly about.”
With Atria, Paul Lewis is not just showcasing elevated cuisine; he’s telling Australia’s story on a plate. Every dish invites diners on a sensory journey through the country’s diverse regions, celebrating local producers, native ingredients and seasonal rhythms.
Here, technical skill, storytelling and heartfelt hospitality converge, creating a dining experience that is as refined as it is connected to the land.
