By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
There is an iconic scene in the hit comedy ‘My Big Fat Greek Wedding’ when Ian, the new vegetarian partner of the main character Nina, is introduced to the family. The revelation of discovering "he don’t eat no meat” is initially met with shocked silence before Aunty ‘Thia’ Voula saves the day by declaring, "I make him lamb.”
It was a similar experience at the recent opening of new Greek taverna Jimmy’s at Bay Nine when host Marko Taxidis overlooked my pescatarian place card and instead piled my plate high with tender slices of slow-cooked lamb kleftiko.
However, whether it was Marko’s charm - the 82-year-old only removes his jacket when all the guests are seated and still insists on serving every course personally - or the thought of tucking into a timeless recipe passed down through generations, suddenly dietary requirements were forgotten. I found myself asking for another round of pita bread to mop up the juicy sauce…
It’s an encounter that’s typical at Jimmy’s and part of the magic that makes it set to stand out in a sea of Greek eateries currently flooding the Harbour City.
Marko is supported by Chris Drivas, a restaurant veteran with more than 50 years of experience in the industry, who first learnt the ropes as a child, side-by-side with his father Jimmy - whose name inspired the eatery.
"I've been in business since the age of seven with Dad, back in Greece. I grew up with Dad in tavernas, in restaurants and I just fell in love with it,” says Chris.
More than half a century later, Jimmy’s Kitchen is, at its heart, an homage - not just to a man, but to a way of life. It is the kind where hospitality isn’t a transaction but an act of love and where generosity is measured not in portion size, but in the warmth of the welcome and the passion behind every plate.
The legacy left by the original Jimmy and continued through the work of his son is that true service starts on arrival. "Dad would say when customers walk through your door, you treat them like they’re coming into your house,” recalls Chris. A motto that’s now stitched into the soul of this 22-seat taverna in The Rocks.
That’s exactly how it feels when you take your seat: less like dining out, more like stepping into someone’s home, albeit someone with very good taste in wine and even better taste in wallpaper. The sandstone walls, royal blue and gold accents and flicker of candlelight create an atmosphere that’s both nostalgic and transportive. Blink twice and you could almost be in a hillside taverna in the Greek Islands - minus the risk of sunburn and stray cats trying to join your meal.
The menu is streamlined, soulful and so very deeply personal. "Dad was a simple man,” says Chris. "His motto was eat, eat, eat.” That’s exactly what you will do at Jimmy’s - with options like tender octopus and saganaki prawns topped with crumbled feta and swimming in a tomato bisque offering a nod to a cook with a lifelong love of the sea.
Similarly, the lamb kleftiko, the same dish that converted me from pescatarian to part-time carnivore, delivers a tribute to family gatherings and timeless recipes that the original cook has likely never written down. The bougasta for dessert - all golden pastry, creamy custard and a snowfall of icing sugar - tastes like it was baked by a Greek Yiayia, if said grandmother was perched on the edge of Sydney Harbour and not a Hellenic coastline.
Even the drinks list feels like a postcard from the Aegean. From crisp Assyrtiko whites to bold Xinomavro reds and a lineup of Greek beer, aperitifs and cocktails spiked with Mastiha and Tsipouro, it’s an invitation to sip, savour and maybe dance if the mood strikes.
Beyond the food and wine, what makes Jimmy’s truly special is its philoxenia - that distinct type of Greek tradition that feels both familiar and larger than life. It’s the kind of place where strangers become friends by the second glass and you’re subtly shamed if you don’t go for seconds.
Leading the march in making friends into family is Marko. The man, the myth, the maestro. Having worked with both Jimmy and Chris for more than four decades, Marko’s story is woven into the restaurant’s DNA. He’s part Chef, part storyteller, part unofficial Sommelier - and, by all accounts, 100% heart.
With an energy that belies his 80+ years, Marko still moves between the floor and kitchen with the ease of someone half his age, sharing tales from the early days and making sure every guest is fed and fussed over.
He never had grandchildren of his own, but after an evening at Jimmy’s, it’s clear he’s become everyone’s Papou - the kind who insists you eat more, laughs at your empty plate and sends you home with your heart and stomach completely full.
