By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
There’s something magical about cooking with fire. It’s primal, smoky and full of drama - and for some of Australia’s top Chefs, it’s where flavours come alive. From sizzling steaks to delicate seafood, these culinary masters show us how patience, respect and a little heat can transform ingredients into unforgettable dishes
Jarrod Walsh recently took the reins at Shell House Dining Room, bringing fresh energy and a freestyle approach to coastal Australian cuisine. Having led Automata and launched Longshore in Chippendale, Jarrod champions sustainability, collaboration and ingredients sourced from the sea and land.
"When cooking with fire, my best tip is to make sure that whatever charcoal or wood you are using has burnt down to embers and is spread evenly. This will give you a balanced temperature with minimal flame,” he says.
Jarrod’s approach is all about patience, balance and respecting the natural flavours of top-quality produce. By tending to the fire rather than rushing it, he ensures every ingredient reaches its full potential.
For John Frid at Elliott’s Balmain, patience and control define cooking over wood fire. "I always cook over coals, not over the flames from freshly burning wood,” he says. "When the wood is still igniting and producing large flames, the heat is uneven and can impart a harsh, bitter smoke flavour to your food.
”A smouldering fire with heavy smoke isn’t ideal either - too much smoke can overwhelm and negatively affect the food’s natural flavour. Take your time at the beginning to let the fire burn down to a steady bed of glowing coals.”
The colour of the coals is a key indicator of heat, says John. "White and yellow coals mean a hotter, faster-burning fire, while ruby red to deep orange coals are cooler and slower-burning. For steaks, I prefer to cook over orange coals, as this provides a balanced, medium heat.
"The larger the steak, the darker the orange should be - slower cooking helps achieve even doneness without burning the exterior. For fish, I use a slightly hotter bed of coals, since fish cooks quickly and benefits from higher, direct heat.”
Hunter & Barrel’s Sean Hall believes cooking with fire is an art that appears simple but demands a deep understanding to master. "It all begins with your heat source,” he says. "You must know your tools: a solid grill and clean lump wood charcoal. While flames are visually impressive, they are not ideal for cooking. Always allow your fire to burn down so you have an even heat distribution.”
"When it comes to ingredients, source only the best, as fire amplifies everything, making quality extremely important. I strongly believe superior produce always yields superior results,” Sean says. "Ensure ingredients reach room temperature before hitting the grill to ensure even cooking. A good marinade, rub, or basting always helps, locking in moisture, adding depth and creating a beautiful smoky crust as it caramelises over the coals.
"A lesson to be learned early is that controlling the heat is paramount. You are never truly in charge of fire and managing the heat is crucial,” he explains. "Resting your meat is as important as cooking it. Fire delivers intense heat and without adequate resting, residual warmth will overcook your food. A good rule of thumb is to rest it for as long as it was on the fire.”
Neil Nolan’s Argentinean wood-fire grill at Pony Dining has been at the heart of the kitchen since 2006, giving its signature flavour to steak, seafood, vegetables and even cocktails. According to Neil, the secret to perfecting it lies in patience - and in choosing the right fuel. "We use ironbark as it is a dense, slow-burning wood. It produces a clean, neutral smoke with a subtle sweetness,” he explains.
Timing, too, is essential. "Light your fire at least 40 minutes before you cook over it. It gives the wood time to burn embers to give a clean radiant heat.” It’s an approach that reflects Neil’s mastery of open-flame cooking - a blend of precision, respect and rhythm that lets every ingredient shine.
Sunny Gilbert of cult Melbourne German Beerhouse Hofbrauhse treats fire with both reverence and restraint. "Fire is a wild beast. Don’t fight it, guide it. Think like an orchestra conductor, not a firefighter – except your instruments are hot and occasionally bite. Move your food, not your panic,” he says.
For Sunny, mastering the grill begins with balance. "You are in charge, not the fire,” he explains. "What you need to do is create two distinct zones: a hot zone, for that perfect sear and rich crust, and a cool zone, for gentle finishing (and saving sausages from an untimely end). Bratwurst isn’t here for theatrics – treat it with care and a little patience.”
When it comes to fuel, he stays true to tradition: "Charcoal generates a reliable heat and gentle smokiness, hardwood (oak or beech) gives pure Bavarian energy and wood chips are like cologne for your grill – a few sprinkles go a long way.”
Sunny swears by patience and precision. "Good meat, just like good Chefs, needs rest. If you cut it too soon, you’ll lose those beautiful, rich juices,” he says.
Jacopo Degli Esposti emphasises preparation and timing on Bistrot Bisou’s wood-fire grill. "Always start your fire at least an hour and a half before service so the charcoal has time to reach the right heat - you want the charcoal doing the cooking, not the flames,” he explains.
Jacopo also stresses seasoning meat ahead, maintaining a clean grill and finishing with salt flakes for perfect tenderness. His approach combines classical French technique with the smoky, charred flavours of wood-fire cooking.
