By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
In the American Midwest, they call it Minnesota sushi - a slice of deli ham smothered in cream cheese and rolled around a gherkin. No soy sauce. No sashimi. Just pure Americana ingenuity. A regional quirk that, despite its simplicity, says volumes about how place shapes palate and plate.
At Embr in Wildergreen, on the banks of the Murray River in Moama, Chef Daniel Girau (supported by restaurant mascot Enzo the Fox) takes that same ethos – the idea that food can be familiar yet reimagined – and fuels it. Albeit, with a little more finesse.
His version of sushi swaps supermarket ham for silky prosciutto and trades cream cheese for delicate buffalo mozzarella. It’s a knowing nod to humble origins, elevated through craft, restraint and flame. In many ways, it sums up exactly what Wildergreen in Moama aims to do.
As the last town on the NSW border before travellers cross into Victoria, Moama is rewriting what regional dining looks like. What once may have been defined by pub parmas and bakery pies is now quietly stepping into a new era – one shaped by seasonality, design and the kind of culinary curiosity that you typically associate with Big Smoke slick.
The new dining precinct that is Wildergreen, is where country charm rises to the urban challenge. It’s a multi-season experience that gently shifts with the breeze. Lawns that change tone as Summer gives way to Autumn. Spaces designed for long lunches in the sun one month and slow fireside gatherings the next.
Conceived by the team behind Moama Bowling Club and Junction Moama, it blends regional charm with refined execution, offering something for families, food travellers and weekend wanderers alike.
Step into the Wildergreen complex and you feel it immediately: nature leads, everything else follows. Leafy pathways, open lawns and thoughtfully designed corners invite discovery. There’s elegance here – but it never outweighs ease. Come with children and they’re not merely accommodated, they’re catered to with intention.
Treehouse, the indoor play and discovery space, is all timber textures, sensory zones and soft learning, designed for ages five and above under supervision. For younger ones, there’s room to explore with guidance, while parents steal a moment over a glass of wine at Embr. Outside, The Playgrounds echoes this philosophy – hideaways beneath canopies, grassy expanses for cartwheels and contemplation.
Then there’s Embr, the culinary heart of this new chapter. A roaring wood-fired oven burns at centre stage, flames licking the edges of dough and drawing out the smoky complexity that defines Chef Daniel’s menu.
Originally from Sardinia, his cooking marries Italian methodology with Australian authenticity. Local produce guides the rhythm and often, native ingredients – lemon myrtle, wattleseed, Davidson plum, pepperberry – punctuate tradition with a local inflection.
The offering is built around sharing, the table presented as theatre and gathering space. Start with a spread of cured meat - black salami, mortadella, San Daniele and bresaola. A perfect pairing with the wild garlic flatbread, which effortlessly weaves its way from kitchen to crowd.
Follow with creamy burrata crowned by char-grilled nectarine for a cliche-free balance of sweetness and smoke. Add crisp Amatriciana suppli - for a satisfying crunch before yielding to rich tomato; or Crudo di pesce, which arrives whisper-light with finger lime providing tiny bursts of citrus. Indecisive?
Pizzas, foldable and Neapolitan in spirit, range from the studied simplicity of a classic Margherita to the bold Diavola sweetened by bush honey. The Norcia – all truffle cream and fennel sausage – edges towards indulgence without losing its sense of proportion. While the Gamberi - with its zucchini cream and lemon zest foundation - is proof that there’s more than one (garlic-based) way to do a prawn pizza.
Pastas follow tradition while bending to the landscape. Pulled lamb mafaldine with cannonau reduction feels rugged and elegant at once. Nonna Caterina’s malloreddus is a Sardinian grandmother’s recipe retold with Australian ingredients.
Mains bring the literal ember magic: a one-kilogram Fiorentina steak served for two, fire-kissed yet butter-soft; crispy skin porchetta that crackles at the touch; a cauliflower steak with romesco proving that flavour is not contingent on protein.
Desserts range from classic limoncello tiramisu to vegan chocolate mousse with hazelnut praline and a refreshing lemon myrtle panna cotta. The drinks program continues the philosophy – zesty Spritzes, seasonal cocktails and wines curated not for showmanship but for synergy. Italian varietals stand alongside those from nearby cellars, in quiet dialogue.
Daniel describes fire as the heart of everything at Embr. It sets the pace as much as it defines flavour. The restaurant doesn’t rush. Dishes arrive with a sense of timing rather than urgency, encouraging diners to stretch their meals. To linger. To connect.
That is where Wildergreen excels. It isn’t a venue. It’s a chapter of conversation between land, season and visitor. A Summer afternoon here might involve live music under fading sunlight. A Winter evening may invite blankets, mulled wine and stories around a fire. Whether you come for a family outing, a celebratory lunch, or a weekend road trip from Melbourne (or further afield from Sydney or Adelaide), each visit offers something distinct.
Moama once meant a river stop. Now, thanks to Wildergreen and Embr, it means something else entirely. A regional escape where ambitious dining doesn’t feel out of place. A reminder that innovation can be as simple as taking something nostalgic - like Minnesota sushi - and allowing it to grow up without losing its sense of humour.
