By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Christmas in Sydney’s CBD has always carried a touch of grandeur. Storefronts filled with glorious nativity scenes. Buskers blasting Bing Crosby-esque carols and the magic of the decor of Martin Place.
This year, the Kimpton Margot Sydney is getting in the spirit, with the hotel marking the start of the festive season with a tree lighting on Thursday, December 4.
It is a mood that is set to carry directly into Luke’s Kitchen, lingering just beyond the Art Deco lobby, where the restaurant’s annual Christmas lunch will seek to capture what Luke Mangan describes as the essence of the season.
"I always think Christmas should feel both comforting and celebratory, so the menu this year really grew out of that,” he says. "For me, nostalgia is about those big, bold, familiar flavours that take you back to when you were a kid.
"A whole roast porchetta feels wonderfully old-school and festive, but we treat it with the same finesse we’d give any fine-dining dish. While the tuna sashimi adds that fresh, bright Australian touch I love, something light, clean and Summery to balance the richness of the season.”
The five-course lunch will be served on Thursday, December 25 from 12 pm to 3.30 pm, priced at $195 per person. Diners receive a festive cocktail or mocktail on arrival before settling in to dishes such as tuna sashimi with aged soy and ginger, poached coral trout in fragrant broth and whole roast porchetta with peach and tarragon salsa.
Plates are shared down the table to encourage connection, with sides including duck fat roast potatoes and radicchio salad with almonds and port-soaked currants. A soundtrack by DJ Sheba completes the atmosphere. It is Christmas, but dressed for the occasion. Comfort lifted by craft.
For Luke, whose career has spanned restaurants from Sydney to Singapore and luxury cruise liners, returning to tradition is more than flavour. It is cultural.
"Absolutely. Growing up, Christmas was always a big family affair centred around sharing and that’s something I’ve brought into the restaurant. I still love the idea of platters in the middle of the table and everyone helping themselves - it creates a sense of connection. I was also raised in a household where food was made from scratch, so that ethos stays with me.”
He still speaks fondly of the dish that defined his childhood celebrations. "My gran’s trifle, without a doubt. It was absolutely loaded with sherry - way more than anyone realised at the time. We’d tuck into it as kids, not understanding why we felt a bit sick afterwards. It was such a classic part of the day. Layers of sponge, custard, jelly, cream…it was messy and a little chaotic, but perfect.”
The memory has not made its way onto the menu but informs the spirit of how desserts are approached.
Before the chaos of service begins, Luke prepares the same way every year. "I’m a creature of habit, so Christmas morning for me always starts with a good coffee. No phone, no meetings - just that moment to regroup before the madness begins. It’s a small ritual, but it sets the tone for the day and keeps me grounded.”
It is a moment of calm before what he admits is one of the most challenging workdays of the year. Still, there is joy in the rush. "It’s definitely full-on, but I love the energy of it. The way I switch off is by leaning into the joy of it all. Seeing families and friends enjoying what we’ve created, there’s something special about that. Once the final service ends and the kitchen settles, I’ll share a quick drink with the team.”
Luke has a candid understanding of what it means to work through the holidays. "I wish people understood how much heart Chefs put into the season. We miss a lot of our own family time so that others can enjoy theirs - and we genuinely want them to. The holidays bring out the best in us, but they’re also some of the most demanding weeks of the year. A smile, a thank you, or just a bit of patience goes a long way.”
If he could invite anyone to Christmas lunch this year, his answer is immediate. "I’d love to host Anthony Bourdain. I think he’d appreciate the full spread - something generous, unfussy but beautiful and a great bottle of wine, of course! I’d love to sit with him, share stories and just talk about food, travel and life.”
When the kitchen closes and it is finally his turn to eat, the plate is far simpler than the restaurant’s polished offerings. "When I finally sit down, it’s usually a late lunch, surrounded by family and a few mates.
"My plate is always a bit of a greatest-hits selection: slices of ham, a bit of seafood - usually prawns - some seasonal salads and whatever roast we’ve prepared that year. It’s relaxed, no fuss, just good food and the people who matter most. That’s Christmas for me.”
