By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
For many Aussies, a trip to Bali is practically a rite of passage. While the island is famous for Seminyak sunsets, surf and sweet Bintangs, few travellers venture beyond the $3 bowls of rendang that often deliver more Bali belly than bliss.
However, back home in Sydney, Aroma of Indonesia is here to change all that, bringing the archipelago’s culinary depth and diversity to the CBD with a refinement that Bali rarely offers.
Helmed by husband-and-wife duo Nessiana Pamudji and Ferry Tshai, the team behind the much-loved no-frills Kent Street eatery The Sambal, Aroma is a confident step into premium territory. It is Indonesian food elevated but never fussy, a celebration of regional flavours that honours heritage while embracing technique honed in Sydney’s top kitchens, including China Doll and Billy Kwong.
The menu is a journey across Indonesia, far beyond the beach club cliches. Rendang is transformed with 2GR Australian full blood Wagyu slow-cooked in a rich, aromatic curry, a dish that balances heat, spice and umami with exquisite precision.
Tongseng domba, a Central Javanese lamb shank curry with charred cabbage and tomatoes, is a revelation - tender, fragrant and boldly spiced - a dish rarely seen outside Java. Nasi goreng is familiar yet refined, while share plates and seafood offerings bring texture, brightness and balance to the table.
Desserts continue the theme of thoughtful audacity. Pandan-scented cendol sago marries vanilla coconut, jackfruit, palm sugar and almond crumble for a playful twist on tradition, while the durian creme brûlée offers an adventurous nod to one of Indonesia’s most divisive fruit, expertly tempered to tease without overwhelming.
Cocktails are equally considered. The Aroma Island marries coconut rum, purple ube, pineapple and condensed milk, finished with a whimsical coconut bubble, while the Toraja Negroni blends house-infused coffee gin, Campari, vermouth and a touch of palm sugar, evoking the aromatic intensity of South Sulawesi coffee plantations. Each sip feels like a miniature voyage across the archipelago.
The setting matches the cuisine. The 44-seat dining room and 12-seat terrace draw inspiration from the Tegallalang rice terraces, layering earthy reds, sunlit mustard and warm wooden accents with traditional Indonesian motifs and contemporary design. The atmosphere is at once intimate and elevated, perfect for long lunches, elegant dinners or any occasion that warrants a little indulgence.
Co-owner Nessiana says Aroma is about challenging assumptions. "Sydney has no shortage of premium Asian dining experiences, but until now, there hasn’t been a space dedicated to showcasing Indonesian cuisine at this level. We wanted to create a dining experience that introduces Australians to the depth of Indonesian food, from family recipes to dishes rarely seen outside Indonesia, while giving us the freedom to innovate,” she explains.
Aroma of Indonesia is more than a restaurant. It’s a portal to the flavours, textures and aromas of a vast and vibrant culinary landscape, offering Sydneysiders a taste of Indonesia that is precise, passionate and unforgettable - without the jetlag, the tourist traps or the Bali belly.
