By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Christmas tables are defined by their centrepieces, the dishes that anchor the feast and inspire the most debate. Is it the sweet-smoky ham that doubles as a Boxing Day hero, the fresh and festive seafood that celebrates the season’s bounty or the grand, golden turkey that embodies tradition and showmanship?
This year, we put the ultimate festive mains under the spotlight. Three experts step up to defend their champion: Bert Glinka for ham, Sally Webb for seafood and Michael Shafran for turkey. Each brings flavour, technique and a healthy dose of personality to the table.
For Bert Glinka of Uncle’s Smallgoods, ham is more than just a protein – it’s Christmas incarnate. "Ham is the hero of holiday proteins: iconic, reliable and universally loved. It hits sweet, salty and smoky notes all at once, feeds a crowd without stress and somehow tastes even better as the day goes on. It’s the most talked-about dish of the season - everyone has a glazing method, a family memory, a kitchen disaster or a secret trick.”
Bert’s argument rests on versatility. "It can swing from classic clove-studded tradition to modern flavour twists - honey, mustard, pineapple, whisky, marmalade, ginger beer, maple…you name it, ham can take it. This year our hot honey Christmas ham with bippi is the perfect example of how you can honour tradition while giving it a fresh, Australian flavour edge.”
When it’s 35 degrees, ham doesn’t flinch. "Ham is thermal-agnostic - it thrives hot, warm, cold, or fridge-straight-off-the-bone. Seafood needs ice, shade and lemon wedges; ham just needs a board and a knife. Hot weather deserves big flavour: that sweet-smoky glaze with its charred edges punches harder than a chilled prawn ever could.”
Plus, when it comes to Boxing Day leftovers, Bert believes that ham is the undisputed champion. "Cold slice, fold, walk away - zero prep, infinite joy; or jazz it up: mustard, cranberry, leftover glaze. Ham reinvents itself effortlessly - think toasties, ham-fried rice, pineapple quesadillas,
breakfast fritters, pea and ham soup, or the ultimate housemade pizza topping.”
Bert’s secret for a show-stopping ham? "Score it deeply so flavour gets right into the fat and not just on the surface. Finish it hot for those lacquered, blistered edges everyone fights over. Use a glaze with personality - something sticky, aromatic and a little unexpected.”
If ham were a person at the Christmas table, Bert describes it as "The charming uncle in linen and aviators who shows up with a six-pack of craft beer, knows everyone’s name and never tries too hard - warm, generous, slightly sweet, always the one people talk about later.”
No one is quite as well placed as Sally Webb, General Manager, Sydney Seafood School at the Sydney Fish Markets, to make the case for a festive table kissed by sea breeze. "There’s just nothing more ‘Christmas in Australia’ than peeling prawns by the water, sharing a tray of oysters and letting the sea breeze do the heavy lifting. For many Sydneysiders, an Aussie Christmas truly begins at Sydney Fish Market. Families come down to select fresh seafood, soak up the sea breeze and head home with the makings of a Christmas lunch or dinner that feels unmistakably Australian.”
How do you make seafood feel substantial, when critics complain it disappears in a flash? "Pair prawns and oysters with hearty salads, crusty bread, flavourful sauces and a hero dish like barbequed calamari or a whole baked fish. Even a modest amount of seafood feels abundant when layered with variety.”
For those who worry about the Summer sun? "Australian Christmas is all about embracing the heat. Cold seafood is the hero of a hot day: fresh, flavourful and ready to serve without any oven stress. It lets you spend more time with your guests instead of hovering over a hot stove.”
Seafood doesn’t have to break the bank. "At Sydney Fish Market, there’s something for every taste and budget. Blue mussels, blue swimmer crab and Southern calamari are fantastic, affordable options that feel just as luxe on the plate. If price is a consideration, choose a different size or cut of your favourite species and enjoy the same great taste.”
For those trying to convert a die-hard roast lover, Sally suggests you "Start with something familiar but show-stopping. A whole baked fish, think snapper or barramundi, roasted with fresh herbs and lemon, served alongside a vibrant salad. Hearty enough to satisfy someone used to a roast, but fresh, light and full of flavour. One perfectly chilled prawn in the sun and you’ve got a convert.”
Michael Shafran brings the NYC flavour to the Aussie table and not just through his Brooklyn Boy Bagels. "Turkey is absolutely superior at Christmas for so many reasons. Firstly, there’s nothing more impressive than bringing the whole bird to the table. Not a leg, not a flank - the entire feast in all its glory. When I picture a true Christmas centrepiece, turkey is the shining star.”
According to Michael, turkey’s advantage is its variety and flavour absorption. "You get more bang for your buck. A turkey gives you breast, thigh, dark meat - it takes on flavour better than almost anything else. Ham will always taste like ham. Turkey? Slather it in herbed butter and you’ve got a timeless classic. Prefer something caramelised and tart? A pomegranate glaze will take it to another level.”
Combatting the dry turkey stereotype requires attention. "Dry brining or wet brining are essential. Roast upside down at the start, cover the breast with foil and use a meat thermometer. Follow directions, don’t cut corners and don’t take your eye off the ball. Your friends will adore you for pulling it off.”
Turkey is also the ultimate act of hospitality. "The sheer size and table presence of the turkey is the ultimate act of community and sharing. This baby’s only coming out for special group celebrations and nosh fests.”
Sides and sauces elevate the bird. "A great gravy takes it from good to amazing. Roast atop a mirepoix, add giblets and neck, thyme and bay leaf. Make a roux, add stock, get the consistency right. Smooth mashed potatoes, rich mac and cheese with crispy breadcrumbs - your guests will swoon.”
Verdict
Ham brings joy, versatility and Boxing Day dominance. Seafood delivers freshness, speed and the perfect antidote to the Australian sun. Turkey is theatre, tradition and bold, meaty generosity.
Like an Aussie Christmas itself - sticky, chaotic, loud, messy and utterly joyful - there’s no wrong choice. Whether you slice it, peel it, roast it, or serve it cold by the water, your table will be festively sorted.
If you really want peace on Earth, why not invite all three? After all, Christmas is about flavour, family and a little friendly rivalry.
