By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Sydney loves a comeback story and few are as charming as the return of The Old Commodore Hotel. Anchored between the corporate buzz of North Sydney and the leafy calm of McMahons Point, the 169-year-old pub has reopened with a new look, a fresh spirit and a story that harks back to one of the city’s most colourful characters - William ‘Billy’ Blue.
If the name rings a bell, it’s because Billy Blue’s legacy is literally built into the bones of the neighbourhood. A former convict turned ferryman, trader, smuggler and all-round raconteur, he was the kind of bloke who could charm a governor while sneaking in a little contraband on the side.
His magnetic personality made him a fixture of early Sydney life and his son later opened the original Old Commodore Inn in 1854 to honour his father’s flair for hospitality and connection. Fast forward nearly two centuries and that same mischievous, welcoming energy has found a new home at the revamped Old Commodore Hotel.
Epochal Hotels’ CEO Glenn Piper describes the restoration as a journey through time. The design deliberately collides the old with the new - timber, steel and brick rub shoulders with linen, brass and travertine.
Hand-painted signage and nautical stripes nod to the pub’s maritime roots, while the sun-drenched terrace and lush beer garden keep things firmly anchored in the present. It’s a space that feels both familiar and surprising, like stepping into a pub you’ve known forever but suddenly seeing it in a new light.
Inside, the Main Bar beats at the centre of the action, hosting a rotating lineup of local acts and emerging artists. There’s no shortage of atmosphere here - think laidback lunchtime sessions that roll into raucous weekend gigs.
For those chasing something cosier, the Dining Room doubles as a little cabinet of curiosities, lined with portraits and press clippings from Billy’s past, perfect for long meals and unplugged performances. The Sports Bar, nicknamed the Smuggler’s Club, leans into the pub’s cheekier side - a moody, brick-lined hideaway by day and a late-night den by night.
Out back, the beer garden and terrace are destined to become the North Shore’s new social hub. With greenery, sunlight and space for DJs or pop-up events, afternoons have a habit of turning into evenings without anyone noticing.
It’s the sort of place where you plan for one drink and end up staying for six, fuelled by bug sliders, crab croquettes and the house’s signature Commodore Spritz - a golden mix of bay leaf vodka, peach, passionfruit, apple and Prosecco.
The menu blends pub favourites with a coastal twist. Expect wood-fired pizzas, a properly crispy chicken parmy and a sizzling steak sandwich. There’s plenty for seafood lovers too and the desserts don’t hold back on nostalgia – caramelised banana with coconut gelato and cinnamon-sugar plantain crisps bring a playful finish.
It’s this mix of heritage and hedonism that makes the revival feel so right. The Old Commodore Hotel isn’t trying to reinvent the pub; it’s bringing one of Sydney’s originals back into the fold with style and substance. Like Billy Blue himself, it’s a place that refuses to be pinned down - part sailor, part storyteller and wholly devoted to a good time.
