AUSTRALIAN GOOD FOOD GUIDE - Home of the Chef Hat Awards
Ryan Perry
Born:
Mount Isa, Australia.
History:
My journey into the kitchen began at just 14 years old, juggling part-time work with high school and university studies. While I completed my degree, the pull of the professional kitchen was undeniable and I knew that's where my true passion lay.
In 2015, I made the move to Sydney, joining The Bridge Room under the exceptional guidance of Ross Lusted. It was an incredible four years there, immersing myself in one of Australia's most acclaimed restaurants, meticulously learning every section and refining my craft.
To further diversify my knowledge, I then moved to Momofuku Seiobo, working with Paul Carmichael. This was a pivotal experience, not just for culinary techniques, but for truly understanding the art of serving guests and creating memorable dining experiences.
The COVID lockdown brought a temporary pause, after which I briefly worked with Hartsyard in Newtown before reuniting with Ross Lusted for the opening of Woodcut in Barangaroo. My two years as Sous Chef there were invaluable.
In a thrilling new chapter, I joined Jarrod Walsh for the second time, taking on the exciting challenge of opening Longshore restaurant within The Old Clare Hotel. Here, I oversaw all food and beverage operations for the entire hotel, a comprehensive role that broadened my leadership and operational expertise.
Now, in 2024, I've joined The Ascott Limited Australia group to spearhead the pre-opening of its flagship restaurant, Bar Lettera. As the Head Chef, my focus is to present classic Italian tradition through the vibrant lens of Modern Australian interpretation.
I'm driven by creating dishes that are both deeply familiar and excitingly new, challenging perceptions while evoking a comforting sense of nostalgia. It’s about honest cooking with big, bold flavours, presented with meticulous attention to detail – nothing to hide, just pure, heartfelt hospitality.
Have you always wanted to be a Chef?
Honestly, I feel like I genuinely fell into it. Looking back, it's quite remarkable that I've been working in kitchens for 20 years now. What started as a part-time job has blossomed into a profound passion and my love for cooking only continues to deepen with every dish and every service. It truly feels like where I'm meant to be.
How would you define your style?
My style is about a playful yet respectful dialogue between the classic and the modern. At Bar Lettera, the dishes will always feel inherently familiar, yet wonderfully new. I love challenging our guests' perceptions while simultaneously filling them with a comforting sense of nostalgia.
I achieve this by using big, bold flavours and presenting the best ingredients in the most honest way possible. There’s nothing to hide; my focus is always on perfecting the smallest details, ensuring every element shines.
What is your feature flavour these days?
Our Milo tiramisu is unequivocally the signature dessert of Bar Lettera and I'm convinced it's so in demand I'll never be able to take it off the menu! It’s a nostalgic Australian twist on an Italian classic that truly resonates with our diners.
Obsessive-compulsive about?
Absolutely everything about the little details! They are, in my opinion, the most important aspects. You can present a guest with a perfectly cooked ribeye steak, but if the accompanying salad was under-dressed, that's what they'll remember and tell their friends.
Every single element, from the music playing in the background to the perfect chill of a cocktail, has to meet our exacting standards. It's about crafting an entire, flawless experience.
Your greatest culinary influence?
The biggest mentors throughout my career have undeniably been Ross Lusted, Paul Carmichael and Jarrod Walsh. I wouldn’t be where I am today without their immense guidance, teachings and belief in me. They've shaped not just my cooking, but my philosophy in the kitchen.
What do you love about this business?
For me, hospitality is a feeling. It's fundamentally about generosity and creating an environment where our diners feel like old friends who have come to visit. Everyone is welcomed with open arms and the ultimate goal is for them to leave feeling utterly content and full – both in body and spirit. That, to me, is the absolute best part of what I do.
An ingredient you can’t live without?
Calabrian chilli. It's our secret weapon. We subtly incorporate a touch of heat into most of our savoury dishes. Very few people would describe the food as overtly spicy, but that hint of Calabrian chilli ensures every flavour feels incredibly balanced and elevated, making the dish taste even bigger and more vibrant.
Most ‘eyebrow-raising’ menu item?
That would have to be our prawn toast cannoli. It's our playful take on a classic, featuring a delicate prawn mousse and sesame seeds, all presented within a crisp, savoury cannoli shell. We make everything from scratch and it's consistently a huge hit and a delightful surprise for our guests!
Signature Dish?
Risotto al Salto, featuring Moreton Bay bug, stracciatella and our house XO sauce. This dish holds a special place because it perfectly encapsulates Bar Lettera’s philosophy. While risotto al salto is a super traditional Italian preparation - a twice-cooked risotto base that creates an incredibly crispy, almost cake-like texture - to my knowledge, we're currently the only venue in Australia serving it.
What makes it truly unique and where our Modern Australian interpretation comes in, is how we pair it. We top that incredible crispy rice with succulent pan-fried Moreton Bay bug tails and luxurious, freshly made local vannella stracciatella.
The final flourish is our signature housemade XO sauce, which is special in itself because we craft it by utilising all the off-cuts from the fish we use in the restaurant, significantly reducing our waste. It’s a true showstopper - a comforting blend of vibrant Australian produce and soulful Italian tradition, crafted to warm your heart and make you feel right at home with every spoonful.
What can diners expect when they eat at your restaurant and what makes the experience special?
When you sit down at Bar Lettera, you'll immediately settle into an unexpected calm. We pride ourselves on cultivating a relaxed and genuinely welcoming atmosphere that puts you completely at ease.
Our aim is to deliver a relaxed fine dining experience, where the service is attentive and intuitive without being intrusive. It’s about enjoying exceptional food in an environment that feels both sophisticated and utterly comfortable, like you’re dining in our home.
What is your go-to meal at home when you don’t feel like cooking?
Hands down, it's Indomie mi goreng with a fried egg! Simple, satisfying and always hits the spot after a long day in the kitchen.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years’ time?
My intention is to continue to grow and develop new restaurant concepts with The Ascott Group. I'm passionate about building and expanding our hospitality footprint, creating more exceptional dining experiences.
Bar Lettera
Nestled on Walker Street, Bar Lettera is a contemporary Italo-Australian restaurant and wine bar which journeys into the artistic soul of North Sydney. Inspired by the rich heritage of the vibrant neighbourhood, a creative energy is embedded deep within the layers of its cultural fabric. Situated on Level 5 of Citadines Walker North Sydney, discover a lavish interior where the space carefully intertwines influences from late modernist Italian design with Australian handcrafted artistry – luscious marbles harmonise with raw hardwood for an elegant ambience. From an all-day offering to nourishing breakfasts and plates to share over wine for dinner, perhaps start a memorable meal with burrata, persimmon, Treviso and almond; follow on with rigatoni pasta with duck ragu and Davidson plum gin.
